Rabbit owners

[Dean Novakowski]

Jim.. On the laser output.. to send the file to the machine go the the 3rd tab & click download current & this wll send your file to the machine.

[Levi Chanowitz]

Is there new software for the Rabbit? I have Laser Cut and Engrave Dsp4

[Dean Novakowski]

Levi, we are working with a company to develop a new print driver for our company. (we have exclusive contract) Should have something soon to start some testing.

[Levi Chanowitz]

First of all I was at your website http://www.the-lasersedge.com/Video.html. I think that all non believers should go on your website they will get a glimpse of our Chinese machine.

when you say "we" who do you mean?
How will the new program be an improvement over the old one?
When will this be ready/
How much will it cost?

[Dean Novakowski]

Levi
When I said we.. That means Our company. The-Laser's Edge
How will this be better than lasercut?
It will be a completly new laser output option. Couple things would be:
Where you will be able to select Power /Speed for Vector & Raster as well as dpi & ppi.
Speed and Power will be in percentages. unlike speed is now
Also there is support for alot more programs. Including CorelDraw x3
When will it be ready? By the end of March
How much? TBA Depends on final development costs.. guess would be around $500
after final production- we will ship with new machines.

[Shell Glen]

hi guys
My name is Michelle and i live in England
I have a Hx40 a
I have had it for 4-5 weeks
I make miniatures for dollhouses and thought a laser would take away lots of manual cutting etc boy i was so wrong. but thanks to the very nice gentleman who started this thread i am finally able to cut. the software newlydraw that came with it is very basic but so frustrating to use as it has chinese symbols instead of english the UK supplier are not much help either, so this forum is a godsend to me, i am not very good with the laser at the moment but learning slowly and becoming more confident. looks like my laser cut miniatures are going to be a while in the making.
Hugs
Michelle
UK

[Levi Chanowitz]

I use LaserCut and it is in english and easy to use

[Levi Chanowitz]

I have 3 problems with my big (around 2' x 3') 60 watt Rabbit HX6090SE

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

2. when I draw a rectangle it it out of square

3. when I raster engrave it doesnt do so well with the tiny details

Can someone help me?

Also, Dan & Dean, when will your new software be ready?

[James Jaragosky]

I have 3 problems with my big (around 2' x 3') 60 watt Rabbit HX6090SE

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

2. when I draw a rectangle it it out of square

3. when I raster engrave it doesnt do so well with the tiny details

Can someone help me?

Problems 1 & 2 may be related. Have you ever checked the alignment of your mirrors?

You need the beam to be as close to dead center on all mirrors and the lens, this will get you the best focus and thus the best engraving.

Or it could be your table is not level and your focus changes as your table dips or rises
.
Also check the focal length with problem #3; are you sure you are in your optimum focus range?

Or I might ask what dpi you are using on your photos as that will make a big difference on your details as well.

As for #2; is the burn out of square with the project material, or is the actual burn out of square?
Can you post a picture of this?

[James Jaragosky]

hi guys
My name is Michelle and i live in England
I have a Hx40 a
I have had it for 4-5 weeks
I make miniatures for dollhouses and thought a laser would take away lots of manual cutting etc boy i was so wrong. but thanks to the very nice gentleman who started this thread I am finally able to cut. the software newlydraw that came with it is very basic but so frustrating to use as it has chinese symbols instead of english the UK supplier are not much help either, so this forum is a godsend to me, i am not very good with the laser at the moment but learning slowly and becoming more confident. looks like my laser cut miniatures are going to be a while in the making.
Hugs
Michelle
UK

Michelle I don’t know if anyone else has officially welcomed you to the creek? So let me say; Welcome to the SMC. I see you found this old post, so that shows you have found the search function, there is tons of useful archived posts on almost anything you might think of asking regarding your hobby or your new laser.
I am very new to the whole laser thing myself, but I will be glad to try help in any way I can.
If your machine did not come with air assist you will have problems cutting parts for your hobby, as the lens gets dirty fast. Also if you’re not carful the flame-up could burn and damage the lens.
This rabbit / off brand group list idea never took off, it just did not get much interest from many people. Anyway I wish you luck with your new machine.

[pete hagan]

Levi I have the same machine and have had some similar issues.

Let's start with your first issue.

1. when it engraves on the top part of the table (especially on the middle to right side it engraves much lighter and is unacceptable

This sounds like the beam is out of alignment. It really takes some time to manually align the beam but once you do it will engrave consistently across the entire run of the gantry. USE large tongue depressors or something besides cardboard and paper to align. As you burn cardboard (like it shows on the video) it will off gas through the cardboard onto the mirrors which you then have to clean. Instead just get some large popsicle / tongue depressor sticks and chop down to size. Using masking tape to attach to the mirror and you'll get three or four quick shots with the laser before turning over or replacing the stick. Get the burn as close to centered as possible!

In addition my table (elevated by four screw rods driven by chain and a motor) was not level side to side / front to back. The lower left screw rod was out by three revolutions so I had to remove the chain (dropping the drive motor) level the table and CLAMPING each drive screw so it did not change, then painstakingly replace the chain / motor. You need a helper and it is much easier if you can build up the floor inside the machine so you can lay on your back with your upper body INSIDE the base of the machine. Takes time but will help as well. To tell if your machine is not level simply run the gantry / head to each corner, measure table height to bottom of laser head and compare. You should be within less that .5mm from every point otherwise the engraving , cutting will not be consistent even with a well aligned beam.

2. when I draw a rectangle it out of square

mmmm.. Something is causing the machine to skip "steps". Either the speed is way too fast or there is a loose / broken wire between the controller and the motor. I would first look at the speed issue. The fastest I have successfully run the engraving at is 1050 and not 1200 where I do get poor results. Second I would check the actual screw down connections in the opening on the right side of the machine where all the circuits are located. The wires are crimped onto a small lug and then inserted into a European style connector on each motor controller. I found two broken wires on my motor controllers when the machine was delivered causing intermittent connections that drove me crazy for a couple of hours. I found them by gently wiggling the wires where they are connected in the screw down terminal (green) while I ran a sample on the machine. It was quick from there to fix.

3. when I raster engrave it doesn’t do so well with the tiny details

My raster is very good with details. Slow down and really verify you have taken care of the alignment first.

Good Luck.

Pete

[Rob Bosworth]

IF your rectangle or square is more like a trapezoid, I would guess your X and Y axis is out of square. IF your machine has hard stops, pull the X axis arm towards the hard stops. If both the right and left sides of the X axis arm do not hit the hard stops at the same time, it is out of square. Once you square that arm, you should get squares and rectangles from the mechanical side of your machine.

[Levi Chanowitz]

Thanks for all your help

When I draw a square on black brass and cut it on my shear, it appears to be out of square, otherwise it is unnoticable. I therefore conclude that it is not a loose wire

Right now I engrave on the front left quarter and it is okay for 99% of what I do. When I get a chance, I will follow up with the suggestions that you made.

I was suprised that you "successfully run the engraving at 1050". The highest that I ever run my machine is 600. I engrave text on black brass at 500 speed and 85 power. This is my most common speed.I use it for engraving text on gold plastic and on lucite. When I originally got my machine and I tried to go faster, it did not work well (lost steps?) It also would engrave a few specks out of the lines of the letters (it still does this some times)

Can someone tell me what they use on these 3 substrates?

Also, Rob Bosworth says "IF your machine has hard stops, pull the X axis arm towards the hard stops." (how) does this apply to our rabbit?

[Levi Chanowitz]

I just adjusted the beam and it runs 100% better. I also upped the speed to 1000 @ 100% power and it did a super job on gold plastic.

Thanks again

[Levi Chanowitz]

I just adjusted the beam and it runs 100% better. I also upped the speed to 1000 @ 100% power and it did a super job on gold plastic.

Thanks again