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Thread: What sealer/wax over BLO finish??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    What sealer/wax over BLO finish??

    I'm a newbie, and I keep reading different "best" ways to finish a bowl. I settled on boiled linseed oil because I couldn't get antique oil in my town, but ordered some, & needed a substitute for temp. use. Anyway, the linseed oil doesn't dry very hard, so I need something to put on the outside. The bowls are definitely going to be practical use-fruit/salad, whatever. Should I use a wipe-on poly, spraycan lacquer (I don't have an air sprayer yet) or a lacquer/wax combo? I'd appreciate any suggestions, and explanations of why some are better than others. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Nathan,

    Boiled linseed oil can take quite a while to dry and as you stated is very soft. Typically if I use BLO on a turning I"ll top it with dewaxed shellac and then with the coating of my choice depending on use......lacquer has a tough time sticking to BLO but will stick to DEWAXED shellac. Just about anything will stick to dewaxed shellac and it's my favorite coating. I often use BLO to pop the grain and follow it with dewaxed shellac. Then you can put on any finish you'd like.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    BLO is just oil, and as Ken states, it needs time to cure. About a week or so for a normal application. Minwax Antique Oil is a wiping varnish...don't go by the name...not an oil. You can use just about any wax you want, but many turners use carnuba wax as part of the buffing process.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    Alright, I'm going to show my ignorance again. By pop the grain you mean make it stand out, right? So I'm going to have to get a couple different colors of shellac flakes, after looking a little. Seems like the cherry I have would benefit from a colored shellac. How long does it keep once mixed, and does it respond to cold at all? My workshop is not heated. I know that the alcohol won't freeze, but does the shellac degrade or anything if it goes repeatedly below/above/below freezing a lot? Does the Zinsser stuff at the hardware store--sealcoat work as well as real shellac flakes? Thanks people. I'm hoping to avoid as many mistakes as possible.
    Also, I'm not sure I understand what sticks and doesn't to BLO finish. Will antique oil stick to it? It arrived ironically today. The BLO isn't cured yet, but if I wait a few days will it stick? Thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    SealCoat is dewaxed shellac. If you put it over BLO it would probably be best to thin it with mineral spirits. Some suggest a thin coat immediately wiped off with a kitchen paper towel while the lathe is turning.

    The other shellacs contain was which is a natural by-product in the manufacture. Shellac is made from bugs. No wax is actually added to shellac but removed in products like SealCoat.

    I use both and can't tell the difference but I haven't used additional finishing products over the shellac.

    Burt

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt Alcantara View Post
    SealCoat is dewaxed shellac. If you put it over BLO it would probably be best to thin it with mineral spirits.
    Shellac is reduced with alcohol, not mineral spirits. There is no need to reduce SealCoat unless you are looking for just a wash coat. It's a #2 cut and ready to use out of the container for brushing, wiping or spraying.

    Nathan, you can actually put shellac over the BLO even before it's cured. It will not affect the shellac at all. (Jeff Jewitt recently did an article on this method in Fine Woodworking and I've successfully tried it on a project of my own) Shellac is also usable to relatively low temperatures, but best results are with normal room temps if you can get them with some form of portable heat. (Turn it off before you start using the shellac if it involves a flame in any way)

    You can put the Minwax Antique Oil finish over the BLO no problem. It's not oil. It's a wiping varnish like almost any other wiping varnish. But it's probably best to wait 3-5 days before you do.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    I agree here, the shellac will probably be the best option.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Jim,
    I thin SealCoat using mineral spirits for frictioning. I find that using it full strength puts an uneven finish on the surface while the thinned SealCoat leaves a nice sheen.

    I will try alcohol to see how that compares.

    Burt

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