Used Table Saw - thoughts?

[Joe D'Attilio]

I just found this saw and currently awaiting a reply form the owner:
Delta 34-670

Just had a few questions:

What are some things I should be "tire-kicking" when purchasing a used saw?

How can i tell if it cuts straight?

Can this particluar model be upgraded with a better quality fence system? mitre gauge?




As much as i would love to buy a brand new one; I'm jsut starting out and quite limited on funds; I am just looking for something to maybe carry me a year and fuel my passion for woodworking; longer with a little maintenance. As long as it cuts straight, I'll be fine

Thoughts?

[Carl Eyman]

I don't know this particular saw, but I'll venture some general answers. If it doesn't have a cast iron table or the table isn't flat, I'd keep looking. If you don't have a dial indicator to check for blade wobble, hold a piece of wood with a true surface against one tooth of the blade; with the power unplugged rotate the blade by hand to see if all teeth touch the wood the same. Run the saw under power. Do you hear any noises as it comes up to speed, runs under power, or slows down that indicate poor bearings? Some brief vibration as saw slows may be just an indication it is going through the resonant frequency of the system. Obviously do the coin on edge test.

Several years ago I upgraded my contractor's saw with a Vega fence. I found it easy to do. At most you may have to drill a couple of holes to accommodate the bracket, but probably no big deal.

I, too, have wished for a nice cabinet saw, bur never had one. Yet with my upgraded contractor's saw I've done everything I ever needed to. Get a good fence, good blade, splitter, machined (not die cast) pulleys and a good "v" belt and you'll have a reliable saw.

[Jim Becker]

That's the older design Delta CS. Very serviceable, but not as nice as the "2000" version that I owned as my first real saw. (Identical to the one you saw at Fred's the other day)