Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Need Miter Saw Advice

  1. #1

    Question Need Miter Saw Advice

    Hi, folks. I’m hoping for some miter saw advice.

    Here’s what I want to do: I’d like to be able to safely and maybe even enjoyably cut smallish pieces of wood to length. Pieces like you’d use for making small boxes. The stock is mostly 1/2 inch thick or less and always less than 5” wide. I need to make 45deg bevels and miters. I’d also like the saw to be able to deal with most interior trim cutting needs, if possible. And cutting stuck like pen blanks to length. Sounds basic, right?

    Well, right now I’ve got the Makita 18V cordless 7 1/2” sliding miter saw (LS711D). I’m not all that happy with it. It’s a great saw and I got it because I thought I’d be using it out of the shop but I don’t. The problem is that when I make a cut I very often get wood exploding, cracking, and flying around. This is scary and feels dangerous and I’m tired of feeling like I’m going to break a finger at best and lose one at worst.

    So… is there something I’m doing wrong? Would a different saw be better? I’ve been thinking that some of my problem is low batteries , some might be wood getting into the kerf, and some is a lousy hold-down clamp when I actually use it at all.

    So… should I buy a 10” compound saw? I don’t think I have the bucks right now for a slider and am not sure that I need the capacity anyway. Is there a fence system I should attach.. something like an Incra fence or a Woodhaven fence? My shop is tiny. No room for a permanent dedicated miter station but I do have the beginnings of a portable station going and I could possibly use that to mount a different saw and/or fences.

    Any and all advice is welcome.

    Thanks

    Diane

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Honestly, for working with small parts, I'd first use a sled on the table saw to safely hold and process them through the blade. Miter saws scare me when it comes to dealing with small parts because of the close proximity to the blade and the way that it needs to bear down on the material. I never cut anything less than 4-6" on my miter saw and in most cases, never use it except for rough cutting down boards unless something is way too long to use the table saw safely.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Laguna Beach , Ca.
    Posts
    7,201
    Diane,
    If your fence is not in line on both sides of the work piece...it will bind and it will cause the kind of problems you are describing. I would check the fence with a long straight edge and make sure it is aligned. For very small parts it is wise to make a jig to hold them...you can use a couple of small toggle clamps and a MDF backer...this will keep your hands away. Try also just lowering the blade through the work rather than sliding through the piece....That technique is always a little smoother. If the saw will cut off 1/4" smoothly but binds and kicks back a larger piece ...it is definitley the fence. I have the Hitachi 8 1/2" SCMS and it has been great!
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Hudson Valley, Upstate NY
    Posts
    240
    Diane,
    I'm going to further what Mark said, and advise you to build an ancillary deck and fence for your saw. It takes about 20 minutes and you can use whatever scraps you have on hand. I don't have an intimate knowledge of the cordless Mak, but it should get you started in the right direction. (1)Rip a piece for your deck (or table) the same width as your existing one, subtracting the width of the stock (if you're using 3/4 stock, subtract 3/4", and on and on). It should be at least as long as your deck is, and some people like them longer, extending out past the edges of the saw. (2) Rip a piece for your fence. Since you are working with short stock, you don't need to bother making it taller than your existing fence, and again, the length should be at least as long as your saw's length. (3) Now join the two, making sure that the deck plate butts into the fence piece. Do this on the saw: Put the fence piece against the fence, then the deck piece on the deck. Voila! Now to join them: You'll need to mark where not to screw, for instance, where the blade travels to the fence at its furthest left and right miters, and zero (it shouldn't be a huge space.) So, take the pieces off the saw, and pop 'em together by screwing through the back of the fence piece into the deck piece. Once together, you'll need to attach it to the saw (your fence should have some holes in it for this purpose) using 1-1 1/4" screws- you do not want screws poking through your new fence.
    To fine-tune this, you'll need to adjust your depth setting so that you do not cut all the way through your deck piece, but you do want it to cut into it slightly-5/32" or so. Also, make these first cuts gingerly, as you will be cutting into the fence piece also- you made need to manually cut a little off in places. Once on, make a few dry cuts on the settings you'll know you'll need: 45. 22.5, 0, 45 bevel. etc. You may notice that you can't see some of your miter degree readings where your new deck plate is, so I drill a couple of 1" holes here so that I can see them.
    I think that's it. What is nice about this set-up is the "zero clearance" base it gives you-eliminating tearout on the backs of pieces. It also makes line-up a snap, just line up your pencil mark with the edge of the groove you created on the dry cuts.
    Sorry to have gone on so long- but I use this ancillary deck on my slider all the time. Another thing I do is put a sacrificial piece of 1x2 against the fence, flat side on the table, then my workpiece in front of it. Then make your cut, trying not to go through the 1x2. No big deal if you do, though. I should just post a pic of this set-up, but my new picture phone won't let me send pictures. Grrr. Hope this helps, Walt.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Sapulpa, OK
    Posts
    880
    I've done the same with the zero clearance fence as Walt, but instead of screwing it to the saw table, I've used double stick tape (normally used in turning) to secure the fence...seems to work ok and it's easy to change when you need to. You could even make up jigs with a clamping mechanism that screws to the aux fence.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Redding, CA (That's in superior Calif.)
    Posts
    832
    Yo Diane. The last time I remember seeing your name was on the Pond. I have the Makita 10" scms. I cut some really small pieces on it--shorter than the 5" you mentioned. I bought the extra fence stuff. I really use the hold downs that come with the fence. MY momma didn't raise no brave dumb boys and I like my fingers too much. True I have seen some little pieces go flying but they haven't been toward me and seem to go into the slot at times. Diane, I have to say that the makita scms is one of my most favorable tools in the shop. I hardly ever use the ts for crosscuts anymore. That being said, I don't disagree with any advice others have given you here. I don't really "chop" the cut as some might do though. In fact, I use the sliding feature to ease into the cut far more than with the blade locked in the stationary position.

    Stan
    Project Salvager

    The key to the gateway of wisdom is to know that you don't know.______Stan Smith

  7. #7

    Smile thanks everyone

    Thanks, everyone, for miter saw advice from last week. I got sick with a major cold/flu and didn't get back to you all.

    I've saved the responses and will put more than one of them to good use. For starters, I'm going to try making those cuts on the table saw. I loved the double-stick tape idea for use at the miter station and i'll give that a try to try to make a more fine-tuned workstation there. I guess I'll stick with this saw for now and do those things and work on technique.

    so thanks to everyone.

    diane

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Grand Marais, MN. A transplant from Minneapolis
    Posts
    5,513
    Nice web site Diane. Great projects. You should post more of your stuff.
    I'm ready for the shop tour now.
    Last edited by Tyler Howell; 03-05-2004 at 6:06 PM.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •