Where can I get a metal trash can?? I know stupid question! I'm doing a google search and not getting very good results...
I suppose I could just peruse the local BORGS, but who likes doing that!??!?
Where can I get a metal trash can?? I know stupid question! I'm doing a google search and not getting very good results...
I suppose I could just peruse the local BORGS, but who likes doing that!??!?
I had better luck at the local hardware store than I did at the BORG. Good, old-fashioned bright shiny galvanized trash can.
By the way, even better than a trash can, at least from a capacity standpoint is a 30-gallon drum. They come in both fiber and plastic and can be had free or for very little cost. Even better if you can get the lids which clamp on tightly. I paid $5 for my plastic drum from a place that buys some kind of foodstuffs (tomato paste I think) in them. They have a plastic bag liner so the drums when discarded are clean as a whistle. It holds a ton of chips. They take up just a tad more floor space, but they're about a foot or so taller than a standard trash can.
--Steve--
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If if do a chip collector can, how do you seal the top so its still easily removable...either with a metal or rubbermaid can?
thanks
With the metal can I used, I bought a bicycle inner tube, sliced it open around the circumference, then cut it to form a long narrow strip. Then, using some contact cement I glued this into a ring that was tight enough to wrap around the top of the can and over the lip of the lid. To remove the top, I just rolled the strip down off of the lid, dumped it, then rolled the strip back up over the lip.
This has the advantage of allowing the vacuum within the can to do a pretty good job of sealing it tight.
Nothing I tried in the way of a gasket inside the lid worked for very long.
Also, I understand that those rubbermaid trash cans aren't rigid enough and will collapse from the vacuum.
The best solution, however, is to get one of those 30-gallon fiber or plastic drums WITH THE LID AND THE SPRING TOGGLE BAND. Those seal real tight, are easy to open for emptying, and it's easy to install hose fittings in the top.
--Steve--
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I see..thanks. I have a small rubbermaid can before the 2hp HF DC to catch the big chucks so that dont bend the impeller blades. I can see it slightly suck in on itself but its plenty strong to hold up to the best suction that HF can put out.
I thought i saw somewhere on this site the details (plansO of The Thein baffle but now i cant see to find them...i have a Jet 1100 w/ canister and would like to maximize it's efficiently!! thanks go out especially to Phil for this awesome improvement!!!!
Last edited by Keith Outten; 02-27-2009 at 11:46 PM.
--Steve--
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Last edited by Keith Outten; 02-27-2009 at 11:47 PM.
I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.
My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen
I installed the baffle in the HF 2hp DC just this evening. I cleaned the Wynn filter prior and had about 1gal of fine dust. I sucked the same 1gal of find dust up after the mod. I thought still quite a bit got into the filter so the votes out until I do some more dust collecting.
The cyclone was still going on in the collection bag. I thought the baffle stopped the cyclone in the collection bag. Is that true? I have about a 1 1/8" gap 240 degrees and the out flow is on 120 degree the section touching the ring.
Last edited by Robin Cruz; 08-22-2008 at 1:06 AM.
The cyclonic action of the dust does not stop. The baffle allows the dust to slip past it along the 240 degree gap, rotate around the bag, slowing down in the process and settling out, while preventing the normal updraft of air and and dust up through the separator ring. The dust that would normally escape the bag by coming up through the middle is blocked by the baffle and sent back into the whirling stream of air coming in along the edge. This is how it works.
Give us some pictures of your mod and maybe we can see what went wrong
David
What David said above (particularly photos). Also, make sure you don't stuff the unit when testing. The faster you feed a cyclone, the less efficient the separation. So you may want to repeat the test and feed the DC at about the same rate as a machine would pump out chips/dust.
And it can help to weigh the test media before and after the test (which requires emptying the bottom bag).
OK. those are good points. I did gorg the machine no doubt. I can try again and post some pics this weekend and weigh before and after when testing with a more gentle dust stream.
Is there any reason not to mount the baffle to the separtor ring similar to the trash can separation design using round bar stock?