Modding your 1-stage DC for cleaner filters (Workshops)

[Robin Cruz]

to follow up on by baffle install:

I installed a baffle in a Harbor Freight DC unit that uses a Wynn 0.5 micron filter. I installed the baffle made from 3/4 MDF in the center section of the HF below the funnel and the intake. I ran a threaded rod up from the baffles center to hold the Wynn Filter in place with a threaded knob.

Without Baffle.
Before the baffle, in a short time the filter would be clogged and I would clean by thumping and blowing air out to in. The clogging was significant as all the pleats inside the filter were packed with dust and shavings. I would have to repeat this often to get acceptable draw and when the bag got over 1/2 full it would clog in just a few minutes. I guess the cyclone was actually blowing the bag discard back up into the filter. When I change the bag out I also clean the filter thoroughly with compressed and shop vac. I will get at least 1 gal of dust/debris out of the filter pleats.

WIth the Baffle.
I used the DC with the baffle for a few weeks now. DO all sorts of tasks from planning to sanding. The bag is about 1/4 full. During this entire time, I never felt that the DC had diminished much at all without ever cleaning the filter. I removed the filter today and inspected it. The pleats were remakably clean with 0 evidence of shavings.....just fine just. I used a shop vac and blew compressed air outside in to thoroughly clean the filter. When done there was about 1/4" of find dust in the shopvac. Also I noticed most of the dust was capture near the bottom of the filter suggesting the baffle is doing its thing.

Its not scientific, but the baffle seems to work exceptionally well as the DC continued to provide excellent draw, similar to what I remember with a brand new filter, and even after several seeks of use and without cleaning the filter.

[Joel Earl]

I still do not see how you actually mount/install/fasten the baffle inside the DC? I have made one - it fits inside well but I have a single clue how to fasten without cutting up the dc itself and running screws thru it or maybe riveting in something to make a hanger or ????

anyone help me out here?

[Phil Thien]

I still do not see how you actually mount/install/fasten the baffle inside the DC? I have made one - it fits inside well but I have a single clue how to fasten without cutting up the dc itself and running screws thru it or maybe riveting in something to make a hanger or ????

anyone help me out here?

One of the most clever solutions I've seen is to use the holes through which the legs attach to the ring to run screws into the baffle.

[Rich Purdum]

On my HFDC, I was able to attach angle brackets to the support leg bolts and then attach stove bolts from the angle bracket down thru holes in the baffle (1/2" plywood). To mount the baffle, simply slide it up into the ring thru the holes and secure with nuts.

I also tried the "tab" (midway in the smaller diameter) to push the baffle large diameter firmly against the side of the ring. This worked very well.

With the baffle installed and the machine working, it's pretty neat to watch the chips spiral down the clear bag to the bottom and stay there.

[James White]

I hate to resurrect an old thread. But as many of you already know. It can be difficult to search the forum for specific information. I am looking for any successful implementation of the Thien separator internally on a delta 50-760 1-1/2hp DC. I saw mention that some Delta collectors have a ring that make it difficult to implement the separator.

James

[Bart Leetch]

Here is a bunch of Thien Separator stuff

http://www.bing.com/search?q=thien+s...5-15&form=QBLH

[Dave Wagner]

Just do a Google Image Search on delta 50-760 thien separator, a lot of pics of many different setups. It might not be easy to mount inside it, most just mount it over a garbage can with the separator.

[James White]

Thank's guys. I did the Google thing yesterday morning. Of coarse there are hundreds of posts to read that only lead to more questions. Though I have to admit I hadn't thought of using the images option.

The good news is that there is a forum for the Thien separator. I guess I will have to join. I really thought that there where more Creekers that have been through this already. Seems there are some issues with using the Thien separator with larger than 4" piping. I would like to keep mine at 5". That and I see that some that have done this have increases the width of the "drop slot". This is one of the things I was not sure on in regards to using the separator for larger CFM than shop vacs produce.

I was kind of hoping Phil would pop in here. I saw some post that he was going to be offering separators. I was curious if that ever got off the ground.

James

[Ryan Mooney]

The good news is that there is a forum for the Thien separator. I guess I will have to join. I really thought that there where more Creekers that have been through this already. Seems there are some issues with using the Thien separator with larger than 4" piping. I would like to keep mine at 5". That and I see that some that have done this have increases the width of the "drop slot". This is one of the things I was not sure on in regards to using the separator for larger CFM than shop vacs produce.

James

James, my personal experience is that a 5" inlet is generally fine for any reasonable size of separator. I believe that size of the inlet can matter depending on the diameter of the separator, bigger inlet == bigger separator. Mine at 18" inside diameter had some issues with a 6" inlet disrupting the swirl, but at 5" it was fine (actually it was "fine" at 6" as well until I opened up the slot wider to address other issues..).

The width of the drop slot is more relative to the size and type of shavings than the size of the inlet. I ended up with a 2" slot because - in worst case conditions - my planer generates gobs of rather long (6"+) tissue paper thin shavings and with the normal sized slot they gobbed up the works something awful. I would start with the narrower slot as recommended by Phil - narrower will separate better - and then widen it only if you have clogging problems.

[Jerome Hanby]

I'm going by Tractor Supply in the way home tonight to pick up a pulley. Their website shows metal trashcans. If they have them I'm picking up a couple for my dust collector/baffle mods!

Where can I get a metal trash can?? I know stupid question! I'm doing a google search and not getting very good results...

I suppose I could just peruse the local BORGS, but who likes doing that!??!?

[James White]

Ryan,

Thank you that is very useful information. Do you know the minimum diameter recommended for a 5" port? I have a 30 gal drum that has strait sides so the diameter may be on the small side. I will need to measure it.

Jerome,

I was thinking I would check those out myself. Could you let us know the diameter and the height of the 31gal size?

James

[Jerome Hanby]

Phil,

Got a quick question for you. I'm building the traditional type separator using your baffle like a top hat on a can in front of the impeller housing. Would I see any benefit (of detriments for that matter) is I also added a baffle like this behind the impeller? I wanted the one in front to help drop out bigger chunks before they hit my blades, but looks like adding one like this in the other side would be pretty easy...

[Curt Harms]

Phil,

Got a quick question for you. I'm building the traditional type separator using your baffle like a top hat on a can in front of the impeller housing. Would I see any benefit (of detriments for that matter) is I also added a baffle like this behind the impeller? I wanted the one in front to help drop out bigger chunks before they hit my blades, but looks like adding one like this in the other side would be pretty easy...

I have mine after the impeller. I've so far managed to keep big chunks out of the D.C. system. My D.C. plumbing wouldn't let me use a 'top hat' configuration but the baffle in the bottom of the funnel has worked out pretty well. I also added a 'chimney', roll of flashing formed into a tube that runs from about 2 1/2" - 3" above the baffle up into the Wynn filter. I just used cross dowel fasteners to hold the baffle in 2 spots and used a 1/2" PVC coupling cut to length with a bolt through it for the 3rd support point. 'Scuse the duct tape in the 3rd pic . That was a temporary 'let's see if this works' install. It seems to help. The baffle has worked very well and cost next to nothing besides time. I have 6" PVC 2729 pipe to the D.C. and no issues with it which seems to be an advantage over the plastic 'snap on the top of a garbage can' separators you buy. Those apparently don't work with 6" pipe - too much air, the can scrubs right out and into the bag.

[Phil Thien]

Phil,

Got a quick question for you. I'm building the traditional type separator using your baffle like a top hat on a can in front of the impeller housing. Would I see any benefit (of detriments for that matter) is I also added a baffle like this behind the impeller? I wanted the one in front to help drop out bigger chunks before they hit my blades, but looks like adding one like this in the other side would be pretty easy...

A few people run a separator on a branch in front of the big chip producers (jointer, planer), but also have a baffle in the ring of their DC on a second branch for the finer dust producer (saws, sanders).

Is that what you were planning on?

[Jerome Hanby]

A few people run a separator on a branch in front of the big chip producers (jointer, planer), but also have a baffle in the ring of their DC on a second branch for the finer dust producer (saws, sanders).

Is that what you were planning on?

Not really a plan, just thinking things through. I'm definitely going to have everything come through a front end separator. I was curious if also having the baffle in the ring (I guess that would be a back end separator) would add any benefit and/or would it introduce problems lie reduced airflow?