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Thread: Jigsaw Puzzle Cutting - two questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    3

    Jigsaw Puzzle Cutting - two questions

    First of all let me say I'm glad to be a new member!

    I hand cut (scrollsaw) 1/4" wooden jigsaw puzzles. Many are given away, some are sold.
    A business wants me to make 150 copies of a single puzzle which obviously cannot be hand cut. I am trying to get them laser cut. My plans are to have them on 1/4" (6mm) Baltic Birch plywood which is what I currently use in my scrollsaw cut puzzles. Have worked with a couple of laser people and it seems to be not the easiest thing in the world and I have not been particularly pleased with the test results. Can anyone tell me a better substrate that Baltic Birch in terms of being easier to cut and with more consistency? These puzzles are small... approximately 9" x 9"... so even plain wood could be an option... how about veneered MDF? Anything else?
    If I can get someone to cut these acceptably, I could probably generate more business in this area but right now I'm a little bit stumped. I am a laser novice and do not plan to get into the business myself but would love to find a good, dependable job shop that would work with me to get these (and maybe more) nicely cut.
    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    1/4" Baltic cut's well or not, it seems to vary. The most dependable wood for laser cutting is basswood. I find oak cuts well too, myself, but is a lot more expensive, and have also cut some of the 1/4 woods from HD easily, like alder but I think they only come in 8" max. MDF edges char more and takes longer to cut.

    You can check the laser engraver's list for someone near you to contact. For most of us the price would be related to time, so the faster cutting wood would save $.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    148
    David,

    Welcome to the laser forum. Baltic birch is usually a good material to laser cut. Cuts well, is stable and finishes well. Curious as to what has lead to the less than acceptable results and the determination of making it not the easiest. I have done a variety of puzzles with success, most have been the 1/8" children's puzzles that have the frame and back.

    Todd
    Todd Schwartz - Des Moines, Iowa
    Universal VLS 4.60 (60W) / ShopBot Buddy / Sherline CNC Mill / MakerBot Replicator+
    CorelDraw X6 / Photograv 3 / FlashCut 4 / Aspire 9

  4. #4
    I agree with Todd. 3mm or 1/8" BB cuts like butter and can be finished before cutting with heat transferred artwork.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  5. #5
    We have cut lots of 1/8" BB with success even with photos attached to the board prior to lasering. Is the puzzle just wood or do you have a graphic that is being cut as well?
    Doug

    Equipment: Universal 35W Laser, Roland Vinyl cutter, Roland SC-540 54" Solvent Print / Cut, HP L25500 60" Latex Printer,
    Seal 6500 Dual Heat 60" Laminator, Kodak 9810 8x10 Dye Sub, Kodak 6850 6x8 Dye sub, Nisca Color Plastic Card Printer,
    16x20 automatic Heat Press

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victor, NY
    Posts
    1,288

    Puzzles

    Hi Dave;
    As Joe mentioned, baltic birch varies from one end of the spectrum to the other-mainly due, I believe, to the type of glue used in the process. Finnish birch-if specified- is usually better than plain baltic. There has been a shortage of good baltic birch for the past year and a lot of junk has been thrown on the market.
    For your application, assuming an image or photo is being printed or glue to the substrate, I would go with 1/4" MDF, 1/8" if you can get away with it and can find it, as it will speed up the cutting process. Another possibility is regular 1/4" or 1/8" hardboard- also called untempered masonite.
    Good Luck
    Best regards;
    George
    LaserArts

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    3

    Thanks for the responses

    Thanks to all who have responded.
    Yes, the puzzle picture will be glued to the surface prior to cutting.
    Thanks to this forum, I have touched base with someone who will work with me to develop the most appropriate technique and we will come up with the best solution.
    I am certainly open to trying all the different substrates... and we'll see which does the best!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Lake Stevens, WA
    Posts
    468
    Another option might be to dye sub your graphic onto FRP coated masonite and then cut the puzzle. I've done many like this and they work great.

    Pinnacle ZX Explorer II
    40W, X3
    Vinyl Express Lynx 24"
    Epson 4800 Dye Sub Hybrid

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Junction City, Oregon
    Posts
    213
    I cut both masonite and MDF a lot and for your application would suggest that you stick to MDF core. It will cut faster and just as smooth and hold up as well. I would also spray a laquer over your print before cutting.
    Sandee Force

    A few dollars spent contributing to SMC will save you hundreds of dollars in time and materials.

  10. #10
    You could also use mat board of X-board used by photo framers. It's a harder cardboard that I have used which results in a nice puzzle. I glue the photo to the board with elmers white glue that I dilute with water and paint on.

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