Upper laundry cabinets built and installed

[keith ouellette]

I finished the last phase of the laundry room project. The finish came out better than on the lowers but I think I can get better still. I still have to get some birch edge banding for the shelves.
The pull out trays are on 12" side mount full extension slides mounted underneath. We had a discussion about this and I did a test loading a simulated tray with 3 gallons of water extended for four hours. They held up fine. I would say you could go as long as 14" this way. Under mount slides were 3 time the cost.

Thanks for looking. I appreciate any critique of the work.

[Steve Clardy]

Looks nice keith. I like the trays

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Wow. That's quite a fancy laundry room. It may inspire somebody else within your household to do the laundry now...or was that the plan all along!

Well done.
-Jeff

[John Timberlake]

Nice job. Looks professional.

[Jim Becker]

Nice work, Keith! Keep 'em coming!

[gary Zimmel]

Keith

Nice job on the cabinets..

[Craig D Peltier]

Good job, I do wonder why one would need pull out slides for something at eye level? It wont hurt anything and if it was practice I understand but otherwise im unclear.

[Andrew Thuswaldner]

Very nice cabinets!
Can I ask what bits you used for the raised panel?
Also, what are the carcasses made out of? I assume plywood but what grade and what thickness?
How were the carcasses put together: glue and screws, dowels, biscuits, pocket hole joinery?

I am curious because my long term goal is to build kitchen cabinets so I am in information gathering and skill building mode.

If you feel like commenting on what design decisions you made, what you'd do different, etc. I'm all ears! No amount of detail would be too much for my curious mind.

Andrew

[glenn bradley]

Lookin' good Keith. I can't quite see your slides so this may not apply. I use these to keep folks from scratching the inside of the doors when I install pullouts:


The pic is with 3/4" slides but I use them with full extension side mount slides. Mc Feely's.

[Rob Watanabe]

Looks great Keith. Nice finish!

[Norman Pyles]

Great looking cabinets. Love the pull out trays.

[Alex Elias]

Very nice, congratulations. I better don't show rhis to my wife since she has been asking for cabinets for the last 2 years.

[keith ouellette]

Good job, I do wonder why one would need pull out slides for something at eye level? It wont hurt anything and if it was practice I understand but otherwise im unclear.

Part of it was practice but they are functional as well. My wife has a problem with her arms that make them hurt so the tray will make it easier to grab a heavy bottle of detergent. also you can pull out the tray and grab something in the back much easier. You do sacrifice a little space though.

[keith ouellette]

Very nice cabinets!
Can I ask what bits you used for the raised panel?
Also, what are the carcasses made out of? I assume plywood but what grade and what thickness?
How were the carcasses put together: glue and screws, dowels, biscuits, pocket hole joinery?

I am curious because my long term goal is to build kitchen cabinets so I am in information gathering and skill building mode.

If you feel like commenting on what design decisions you made, what you'd do different, etc. I'm all ears! No amount of detail would be too much for my curious mind.

Andrew

The raised panel was made with a panel raiser that was part of a woodline cabinet makers set. I think the profile was an ogee.

The boxes are 15/32" cabinet grade birch plywood. They are put together with dados/ rabbits glue and 1 and 3/4" brads. I glue, clamp, nail one piece at a time. Ed Peters gave me the idea of drilling pilot holes through the dados to guide screws in. I am going to do that on the next set.
Some people use 3/4" material but so far I think 1/2" put together with dados and screws/nails is very strong. On an entire kitchen 15/32 ply will save a lot of money. On this set I have the back rabbited in flush with the back of the sides. On the uppers I am going to change that to a dado set back the thickness of the box material (15/32") so a 15/32 nailer can be glued onto the back at the top and close to the bottom so the points where the cabinet is screwed to the wall will be thicker.

As far as the design. It was important for me to start from scratch and make these completely custom. Both from a learning standpoint and to suit our needs. They needed to be deeper than standard because they are next to a wash/dryer and we didn't want them recessed. Height was also an issue because of the hose bib.

Hope this answered your questions.

[Bob Childress]

Very, very nice, Keith. What's the finish?