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Thread: Table Saw Set Up and Adjustments

  1. #1

    Table Saw Set Up and Adjustments

    I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

    1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:

    • New belt
    • New blade
    • New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
    • What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
    • New power switch (large off plate)
    2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.

    thanks to all,

    Dwain

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    I think you are on the right track with the stuff you listed. PALS assist in the tedious job of aligning the blade with the miter slot. They are well worth using. Read about them here.

    http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html

    You might also consider using a Link Belt instead of the standard V belt for less vibration. I have read that machined pullies will further reduce vibration, but I wouldn't spend the money on them unless the link belt doesn't do the trick.

  3. #3
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    Pick up a dial indicator from your local Harbor Freight They normally cost about $20 so it isn't a huge expense. Attach a piece of wood to the miter gauge using the two screw slots. Then use a wood screw through the loop on the dial indicator to attach it to the piece of wood. Raise the blade to full height. Mark an area on the side of the blade with a magic marker and set the dial indicator so the tip touches that spot and reads zero. Then rotate the spot to the back and check the reading. If it is still zero you're done. If not, loosen the nuts under the table and move the saw carriage around until the blade is aligned. Repeat as required. Then do the fence using the same basic set up.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain Lambrigger View Post
    I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

    1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:
    • New belt
    • New blade
    • New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
    • What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
    • New power switch (large off plate)
    2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.
    thanks to all,
    Dwain
    You've come to the right place, there are a lot of members who have this saw (including me) and even more who started out on one.
    The 113 designates it was made by Emerson Tool Co.
    It's a shame Old Wood Working Machines is down at this time, they had a wealth of information on this TS. I picked up an owner's manual on ebay.
    Type the model number into Google and you'll get a lot of hits.
    Here's a few links to get you started:
    http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/sawtune/
    http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf
    http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...-perfect-cuts/
    http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/tstu.htm

    And some threads in here:
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67140
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74619
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=757078

    I just wrestled with choosing an aftermarket fence and went with the MuleCab Accusquare after reading that last thread above. For me, it had come down to the Delta T2 (cheaper but some serious drilling and fab work), Vega (they're a month or more behind in their orders) or the MuleCab. I'm anxious to put it on this weekend. Right now my fence is the Align-A-Rip fence that Sears sells for this saw. It's ok, but I want more accuracy.
    I put a switch from Rockler on the saw. Being left-handed, I stay more to the right of the fence, which puts the switch right under my knee, which I like. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=switch

    - Jim

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eddington, ME
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    The P.A.L.S. work great (I have home made version). If you don't have the manual for the saw, you can go to Sears Parts Direct and download one for free. Just put in the model number. And follow the links.

    Probably needs a good cleaning underneath. Get some spray lithium grease for the adjustment screws (angle and height). I also did the link-belt and pulleys on my Craftsman. I did not do them seperate so can't tell you if just 1 or the other helps noticibly.

    Not sure which fence you have, but I have had very good luck with the stock align-a-rip. I bought a used set of rails and have 18" to the left and 50" to the right. About the only thing I have had to do to the fence is adjust it so it locks tighter. I thought about buying a new fence for it. But since most likely I will upgrade sometime to a cabinet saw. I will stick with the stock fence.

    As for blades, I have a mix of cheap ones and really good ones.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain Lambrigger View Post
    I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

    1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:

    • New belt
    • New blade
    • New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
    • What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
    • New power switch (large off plate)
    2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.

    thanks to all,

    Dwain
    Dwain,

    I have a T2 fence that I'm not using. I'm not sure where you live but let me know and maybe we can work something out.
    War Eagle!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Panama City, Florida
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Cadotte View Post
    If you don't have the manual for the saw, you can go to Sears Parts Direct and download one for free. Just put in the model number. And follow the links.
    Really!? When I was looking for mine it wasn't available as a download, they wanted you to buy it. That's always bothered me about Sears tools.
    So, I had to try it. I typed in his model number and I must be doing something wrong, 'cause the only way I can see to get it is to order it.
    I would love to be proved wrong.
    - Jim

  8. #8

    Another Left Hander!

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Mims View Post
    You've come to the right place, there are a lot of members who have this saw (including me) and even more who started out on one.
    The 113 designates it was made by Emerson Tool Co.
    It's a shame Old Wood Working Machines is down at this time, they had a wealth of information on this TS. I picked up an owner's manual on ebay.
    Type the model number into Google and you'll get a lot of hits.
    Here's a few links to get you started:
    http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/sawtune/
    http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf
    http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...-perfect-cuts/
    http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/tstu.htm

    And some threads in here:
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67140
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74619
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=757078

    I just wrestled with choosing an aftermarket fence and went with the MuleCab Accusquare after reading that last thread above. For me, it had come down to the Delta T2 (cheaper but some serious drilling and fab work), Vega (they're a month or more behind in their orders) or the MuleCab. I'm anxious to put it on this weekend. Right now my fence is the Align-A-Rip fence that Sears sells for this saw. It's ok, but I want more accuracy.
    I put a switch from Rockler on the saw. Being left-handed, I stay more to the right of the fence, which puts the switch right under my knee, which I like. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=switch

    - Jim

    Jim,

    Funny, I am left handed too! I got my switches from Grizzly, about $12.00 per. I am debating how much to invest, as I would like to upgrade to a new Griz, or an older PM or Uni cabinet saw. Still, I want this thing to be the best possible. How much does the MuleCab run? I have never looked into that manu.

    thanks for the feedback!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Panama City, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain Lambrigger View Post
    Jim,

    Funny, I am left handed too! I got my switches from Grizzly, about $12.00 per. I am debating how much to invest, as I would like to upgrade to a new Griz, or an older PM or Uni cabinet saw. Still, I want this thing to be the best possible. How much does the MuleCab run? I have never looked into that manu.
    thanks for the feedback!
    The MuleCab Accusquare was $219 shipped. I have to honest, when I opened the box, I thought to myself, Is that all there is?
    But it does look like a decent fence and I'm anxious to try it out. That post about fitting the T2 to a Craftsman TS is a good one, and if you don't mind a little fab work, the T2 is a lot cheaper and a good fence too, I'm sure.
    I'm just starting out too, and thought about saving for a new saw, but there's so much more I need first (well, want <g>), that's it's being pushed further and further back.
    - Jim

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwain Lambrigger View Post

    • New belt
    • New blade
    • New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
    • What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
    • New power switch (large off plate)
    New belt
    - Go with a link belt, you won't believe the difference
    New blade
    - or three, Pick up a thin kerf 24 tooth rip and 80 tooth crosscut at least. I occasionally use a general purpose blade (WWII) but only for really rough stuff.
    New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
    - Good plan, anything will be a vast improvement.
    What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
    - the benefit of the pulleys is less significant than the link belt as long as your current pulleys or OK. Definitely get the PALs.
    New power switch (large off plate)
    - Good plan and it will improve your safety.

    I believe folks here have touched on the other essentials, tools to align your saw, Johnson's Paste Wax for the top, etc. My old 113.xxxxxx is still running great at my dad's shop now. Just like me to totally trick it out and then send it to him . . . .
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    116
    I bought a similar saw recently(the 113.298240) so far I was been taking it apart and cleaning it up. I bought the frued p410 blade for it and a anti vibration belt. I plan to get the PALS before to long as well. Mine came with the XR 2424 fence. You might look online for one of the align a rip fences, they are designed for use with these saws. Mine seems more than adequate. The bies, and other fences seem like overkill to me.

    I found a manual(PDF) for free online, we dont have the exact same model but if you cant find one, I can send you the one I found, they are likely quite similar.
    Last edited by Kyle Costlow; 02-28-2008 at 5:26 PM.

  12. #12
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    Feb 2008
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    Eddington, ME
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Mims View Post
    Really!? When I was looking for mine it wasn't available as a download, they wanted you to buy it. That's always bothered me about Sears tools.
    So, I had to try it. I typed in his model number and I must be doing something wrong, 'cause the only way I can see to get it is to order it.
    I would love to be proved wrong.
    - Jim
    Sorry you have to go to the manage my home link first. Then enter type of tool, brand, and part number.

    I put yours in and it looks like they don't have it. Just a couple days ago I used it for my scroll saw, radial arm saw, and table saw.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Panama City, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle Costlow View Post
    I bought a similar saw recently(the 113.298240) so far I was been taking it apart and cleaning it up. I bought the frued p410 blade for it and a anti vibration belt. I plan to get the PALS before to long as well. Mine came with the XR 2424 fence. You might look online for one of the align a rip fences, they are designed for use with these saws. Mine seems more than adequate. The bies, and other fences seem like overkill to me.

    I found a manual(PDF) for free online, we dont have the exact same model but if you cant find one, I can send you the one I found, they are likely quite similar.
    That's the same model number I have, Kyle.
    Years ago I put an Align-A-Rip fence on it and it's an ok fence. Be sure to put locktite on the screws after adjusting it.

    So far I've installed:
    Machined pulleys
    Link belt (what a difference!)
    PALS
    New 1 hp motor
    Rockler switch
    Delta mobile base

    I'm finishing up an outfeed table that, when raised, will be 40"w x 36"d

    I have the phenolic plate for a ZCI and a MJ splitter to install.
    I just received a MuleCab Accusquare fence and I'm anxious to put it on.
    So much to do.
    - Jim

  14. #14
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    Uhm, I had the saw and fence too. that fence will work if you check it constantly to see if is still square, and the Biesemeyer is not overkill unless you consider putting a fence and knowing it is squre. But I think it the is the same with all the t-squae fence from the t2 to the Powermatic.

    Bob

  15. #15
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    Indianapolis, IN
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    I've always measured both ends prior to important cuts, I suppose if I had money to burn I'd get a fancy fence.

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