I need help with engraving on glass beer mugs

[Tim Morton]

HI,

First let me say I am a digital printer and designer by trade, but we happen to have an epilog laser engraver and I can barely use it. I can engrave wood plaques....and various plastics to make simple signs.

But I now have to engrave 51 beer mugs by the end of the week for some ski race awards. The actual engraving is very simple....just a couple of lines of text and one or two logo's. I would say the mug is a standard 12 oz glass mug with a handle on it. I do not believe I have any type of mug holder laying around....today I just cobbed together something quick to see if I could hold the glass flat and etch something. I did get an image but it looked OK, but far from "good".

Can anyone teach me how to do this in a few simple steps? I basically treated the glass as a flat object and let it cut away. I'm sure there are tricks to doing this correctly. I searched and was surprised to read about rotating carriers that I should be using?

[Tom Delaney]

Tim - where are you in VT?

[Tim Morton]

Tim - where are you in VT?

Okemo Mountain signshop in ludlow.....I have been reading up on this for the last half hour....seems there is this "laser rotary attachement" I am going to call jds tomorrow and see if they can ship me one....

why do you ask?

[Scott Shepherd]

Tim, I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about, but if you're talking about lasering around the beer mug diameter, there is no aftermarket attachment. You'll need a rotary attachment from Epilog. I think they run about $1200.

Follow this link and scroll down to the rotary attachment comparison and there are two photos of rotary attachments. Click on it and you'll get a large photo of them.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=PLS4.60

That'll spin the glass as it's lasering it, keeping everything in focus.

[Tim Morton]

Tim, I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about, but if you're talking about lasering around the beer mug diameter, there is no aftermarket attachment. You'll need a rotary attachment from Epilog. I think they run about $1200.

Follow this link and scroll down to the rotary attachment comparison and there are two photos of rotary attachments. Click on it and you'll get a large photo of them.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=PLS4.60

That'll spin the glass as it's lasering it, keeping everything in focus.

Not around the mug.... just an area about 2" wide and 3" high on a mug that is about 6" high. I had no idea that rotary attachment was 1200 bucks

Maybe I can't just call up and order one tomorrow....

Is there anyone who can help me do this without the rotary attachment?

I did find a template on epilog that might help me, but they suggest the attachment. I know from what I did today I am about 75% of the way there....and thats just cutting on glass with no mask and no attachment...just cutting on dry glass. I think my raster setting was 30/100 and autofocus was off.

[Vicky Orsini]

How many watts is your laser?

You might be able to engrave the mugs flat. The problem is that it might go out of focus on the edges of the engraving as the mug curves. Set your focus manually and try to compensate for the curve.

For my 30w laser, I use 80% power, 40% speed. I apply a layer of dish washing liquid on the area to be engraved. This helps to stop the glass from shipping and flaking when hit by the beam. Some people have found a layer of wet paper towel or wet newspaper helps...I never had any luck with that method.

Good luck!

[James Stokes]

If you are a sign shop, the best way would be cut a mask out of vinyl and sand blast.

[Tim Morton]

If you are a sign shop, the best way would be cut a mask out of vinyl and sand blast.

I don't have sand blast capabilities...but thanks!!!

[Tim Morton]

How many watts is your laser?

You might be able to engrave the mugs flat. The problem is that it might go out of focus on the edges of the engraving as the mug curves. Set your focus manually and try to compensate for the curve.

For my 30w laser, I use 80% power, 40% speed. I apply a layer of dish washing liquid on the area to be engraved. This helps to stop the glass from shipping and flaking when hit by the beam. Some people have found a layer of wet paper towel or wet newspaper helps...I never had any luck with that method.

Good luck!

Thanks!! I will have to check tomorrow the laser power. I will try the dish washing liquid, because I did notice some flaking when I took it out today...a very fine gritty feel. I am using a pretty heavy sans serif font to minimize out of focus issues...and the two logos will be top and bottom dead center. I am designing it all around trying to be centered

[Bill Cunningham]

You will always have a bit of a grainy surface, this can be rubbed off with a scotchbrite pad or the like.. (sent you a PM)

[Mike Null]

I would try a little different approach. First I do not like the high power approach to doing glass. It produces micro-fractures and it is not an effect that I care for. I prefer an etched look which you can get with lower power and a lower dpi setting.

I do not have a rotary device either so I try to re-focus the laser to get the areas missed on the first pass.

Keep in mind that as you engrave cylindrical items the laser will elongate items on the edges. It's not always noticeable but can be a problem.

[Doug Bergstrom]

Tim,
I would help you out but I am about 2+ hours North of you. Call Green Mtn Recognition in Rutland, they may be able to help you out.

[Brian Robison]

Tim,
Use the dish washing liquid, focus the beam in between the high part of the mug and the edge of the engraving area, probably about 3 to 4 clicks up on the table from the top of the radius. If you push focus/ xy disable /go you'll be able to move the lens around by hand to focus.
300dpi is good. For 25 watts, Power 100 speed 12.

[Tim Morton]

Tim,
I would help you out but I am about 2+ hours North of you. Call Green Mtn Recognition in Rutland, they may be able to help you out.

Thanks, I'll give them a call...I wasn't able to get a single glass cut today because other jobs got hot....but tomorrow morning I will start in on the cutting.

[Tim Morton]

Tim,
Use the dish washing liquid, focus the beam in between the high part of the mug and the edge of the engraving area, probably about 3 to 4 clicks up on the table from the top of the radius. If you push focus/ xy disable /go you'll be able to move the lens around by hand to focus.
300dpi is good. For 25 watts, Power 100 speed 12.

Thanks, I am going to have to learn how to focus manually tomorrow...I really am a noobie with this machine.