Date for SawStop contractor's saw? Going on 5 years.

[John Dorough]

I have been planning to buy the SawStop contractor's saw for well over a year now. Can't justify almost $4,000 for cabinet model. Today, I found an article from a 2003 article in Fine Homebuilding tauting the fall of '03 as the time the contractor's version would hit the market. Five years on, and no such saw.

Does anyone know whether SawStop's newly advertised (on their website) "Spring, 2008" will really see the saw come to market?

I'm a newbie woodworker, and do not own a table saw. Anyone care to try to talk me into taking the plunge and buying the cabinet model? [Probably won't take a lot of effort on your part.]

Here's the link from 2003: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...evisited.aspx?

[Brian Kerley]

Over at one of the other forums some guys have now been receiving their saws. They should be for sale in May according to everything the SS guys are saying.

[Jay MacDougall]

I'm pretty sure there will be one on display at the Woodworking Show in Tampa next week if you want to check one out.

[Jules Dominguez]

I have been planning to buy the SawStop contractor's saw for well over a year now. Can't justify almost $4,000 for cabinet model. Today, I found an article from a 2003 article in Fine Homebuilding tauting the fall of '03 as the time the contractor's version would hit the market. Five years on, and no such saw.

Does anyone know whether SawStop's newly advertised (on their website) "Spring, 2008" will really see the saw come to market?


I'm a newbie woodworker, and do not own a table saw. Anyone care to try to talk me into taking the plunge and buying the cabinet model? [Probably won't take a lot of effort on your part.]

Here's the link from 2003: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...evisited.aspx?

John, if your base case is the contractors saw and you've made the decision to commit that many $$, then the true cost of the cabinet model to you is the additional cost of the cabinet model over the contractors saw, because you're going to spend the first $2000 anyway.

If you can afford the cabinet model and you're sure that you're going to stay with woodworking for the long term, get the cabinet model. You won't regret it.

[Brian Penning]

This old thread was very influential on my decision to purchase the SS cab saw.
I wanted to add a post saying I had no regrets also. But I guess old threads can't be added to after awhile?
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...awstop+regrets

[fRED mCnEILL]

I have a question about the blade gaurd. Why is it necessary on a SawStop?

Thanks

Fred Mc.

[Barry Nelson]

Great debate raging on Australian Woodwork forums at the moment about this saw,local company has started importing them here,very lively debate!

[Tim Marks]

I have a question about the blade gaurd. Why is it necessary on a SawStop?

To protect your wallet from the $170 cost of triggering the blade stopping system....

[Keith Starosta]

I was looking one over at the Capital Woodworking Expo in Fredericksburg on Thursday. Much what you would expect from SS. Very clean fit and finish, very sturdy....and very spendy. The representative was very ready to take my order.

- Keith

[Don Bullock]

I have a question about the blade gaurd. Why is it necessary on a SawStop?

Thanks

Fred Mc.

Fred, just because I have the brake on my SawStop doesn't mean that I now stop using all the safety measures that I can to cut wood. I use the blade guard all the time unless I'm doing a type of cut, i.e. tenon jig, where that isn't possible.

[Karl Brogger]

The saw stop is not capable of running with out the guard?! That rules it out for me if that is the case. I don't like guards.

[Randal Stevenson]

The saw stop is not capable of running with out the guard?! That rules it out for me if that is the case. I don't like guards.

Where did you get this idea?

The guard HAS to be removable for some cuts, so it should work just fine without it. A guard is just safety equipment, what you do to help or defeat your own safety, is your own business.

[Karl Brogger]

The wording of the above post. Semantics I guess:

I have a question about the blade gaurd. Why is it necessary on a SawStop?

Necessary as in not needed for protection in this case. Not necessary that it wouldn't work. Just not needed.

I don't do this for fun, so I'm probably not as squeemish as many when it comes to a table saw. I respect what it can do, and do my best to keep myself out of situations that could potentially cause an issue. I've brought this up previously, that not being able to see what is going on at the blade is a severe disadvantage. As is having to worry about things getting caught on the guard. What do you do when cutting small pieces and you can't get your hand close to the blade for proper support? It's my opinion, you can do as you please. I don't see any safety benefit so long as you don't but your self in a position to get hurt. So yes, what I do to help or my own safety is my own business.

[Don Bullock]

The wording of the above post. Semantics I guess:


Necessary as in not needed for protection in this case. Not necessary that it wouldn't work. Just not needed.

I don't do this for fun, so I'm probably not as squeemish as many when it comes to a table saw. ...

I'm sorry for the confusion. Speaking of semantics -- I'm not squeamish about a table saw either. Just because someone uses a blade quard that doesn't make them squeamish about using their saw. Your post made it sound like those who use a SawStop shouldn't use a guard because the brake would keep them from injury.

My position is that if the blade guard doesn't get in the was why not use it. Besides, the SawStop makes it very easy to use the guard. It comes off and goes back on very quickly and easily. Unlike my old Craftsman, the SawStop doesn't have a splitter that constantly gets in the way of the wood as it goes through. If you don't want to use the blade guard the SawStop comes with a true riving knife that is just as easy to remove and replace as the guard. BTW --- I rarely used the blade guard/splitter on my Craftsman. In fact when I gave it away after buying the SawStop I had problems finding it. Unlike the one with the SawStop, the blade guard on the Craftsman was far more trouble than it was worth. At times it was actually dangerous.

What do you do when cutting small pieces and you can't get your hand close to the blade for proper support?

I use push sticks and feather boards with no guard or I do them on the bandsaw.

t's my opinion, you can do as you please. I don't see any safety benefit so long as you don't but your self in a position to get hurt. So yes, what I do to help or my own safety is my own business.

No one here is trying to tell you what to do. You asked a question and I tried to answer it.

[Randal Stevenson]

I don't have a Sawstop (but it doesn't stop me from looking or recommending them to those I know can afford them).

But If I read you correctly (your in part worried about it getting scratched up so you can't see through it easily), consider an aftermarket blade guard with dust collection so it won't get so scratched up and you have visibility.

For me, I bought Grr-rippers, for small stuff, although now I use my EZ Smart setup instead for small parts.

I know Lee Styron was working on a Sharkguard for the Sawstop, and after using one of his, that would be at the top of my list.