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Thread: Wax on Lacquer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Saratoga Springs, Utah
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    863

    Wax on Lacquer

    I just finished a very simple diaper changing supply box for some friends of mine that had their first son recently. I finished it with Danish Oil, and then sprayed lacquer over the top. My question is can I put paste wax over lacquer, and if so, how long do I have to wait to do that, or do I have to wait at all?

    Thanks
    Sawdust is some of the best learning material!

  2. #2
    Brent,

    You can use waxes (paste, etc.) over lacquer but not lacquer over wax. Myself if I were going to rub out a surface with wax like I usually do I would wait at least a week. You want to give the lacquer time to cure. The top will harden quickly but underneath, it will be softer until it is cured. Think of a sheet of ice over mud. Until it cures, it will more than likely act the same way.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Hamburg,New York
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    81
    I finish it one night rub it down the next and wax it right away. I use water born lacquer sprayed. I usually rub between each coat and put on 4 to 6 coats. I never had any trouble with the finish and most of my customers are in awe with the quality of the finish. I only use water born lacquer. I've used it on kitchen cabinets, bath room vanities, and regular furniture, they all held up very well. I've told my customers to wax it once a year if they can and the finish will last a life time.
    Tom

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
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    317
    Tom,

    What kind of wax are you using to get your finishes? A microcrystaline wax?
    Ben

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Hamburg,New York
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    81
    I use to use bowling alley wax, then I used Johnston paste wax, now I just use minwax paste wax. Can't find the other two any more. Just put it on let it tack up to a haze and buff off with an old tee shirt, beautiful shine no streaks. it's great when doing turnings too, hold the pad of wax against the turning and let it melt into the pc. let it spine to tack up and hit it with the cloth comes out smoother then a baby's butt. Hope that helps.
    Tom

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Ivy, VA
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    1,023
    Tom, what are you rubbing down with? Are you talking about rubbing down the wax or the lacquer? I'm new to using lacquer, and trying to get it right on some turned bowls (or rather fix the runs and streaks I have from trying to brush it on). I got a sprayer, but what do you mean by rubbing? Sanding? steel wool? Thanks. Sorry to ask dumb questions. I plan to paste wax the bowls afterwards.
    Last edited by Nathan Hawkes; 03-20-2008 at 5:09 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,854
    If you are just waxing, you can put it on at your leisure. If you are intending to rub out the lacquer and then wax, wait until the lacquer is fully cured...about a month.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Hamburg,New York
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    81
    I rub out the lacquer start out with 320 silicone stirate paper work up to krocuse cloth stop any where between depending on depth of sheen the customer wants. if you use water born lacquer you shouldn't use steel wool some time the wool will stay on the pc being finished and you recoat the pcs of steel wool can rust and not make a nice looking finish.

    Jim, I never waited a month to rub out the lacquer. Usually I rub it out with in the next day or so. I love the water born lacquers alot easier to use. Build up on coats is fast, tinting for high lighting or shading is pretty simple. I've been doing the same procedure for the last 35 to 40 years with no complaints and returning customers that keep wanting the same type of finish.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,854
    Tom, you can often get away with rubbing out "soon", but the best practice is to wait for the finish to fully cure and fully harden. "Dry" is not the same as "cure". The water borne acrylics (they are not really "lacquers"...) are no different in that respect. I said a "month", but a week or two can often be just fine.

    And thanks for reminding folks to only use synthetic "wool" when rubbing out water borne finishes...it can indeed make for a not so pleasing effect!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Klass View Post
    I rub out the lacquer start out with 320 silicone stirate paper work up to krocuse cloth stop any where between depending on depth of sheen the customer wants. if you use water born lacquer you shouldn't use steel wool some time the wool will stay on the pc being finished and you recoat the pcs of steel wool can rust and not make a nice looking finish.

    Jim, I never waited a month to rub out the lacquer. Usually I rub it out with in the next day or so. I love the water born lacquers alot easier to use. Build up on coats is fast, tinting for high lighting or shading is pretty simple. I've been doing the same procedure for the last 35 to 40 years with no complaints and returning customers that keep wanting the same type of finish.
    Tom, is the water born finish a rattle can or do you use a spraygun? Which brand do you like to use?

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