Fitting inset doors

[Robert Meyer]

I am building a sideboard with a face frame with three fully inset drawers
and four inset doors.(see sideboard picture - the doors are set behind the face frame just to see how they will look). The doors are about 1/8" oversize now. I would like a 1/16" gap around the edges when inset (I will use an astrical between each pair in the center) What are your suggestions on how to best trim these doors and in what order do you prefer to do this?
Should I use a sharp TS blade, a jointer, a handpane. Another factor is that the butt hinges (see picture). They have a 3/32" gap between the plates so if I mortise them flush the doors will have a 3/32" gap around the edges.. a bit more than I would like. Would you set the mortises deeper than the plate
thickness to bring in the gap to 1/16"? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you are comfortable with it, by all means use a plane.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Would you set the mortises deeper than the plate thickness..."

I would do this on a scrap piece first to make sure the doors will not "hinge bind". I like to "slip fit" the doors first, then set the hinges and trim the strike side. Then trim the top and bottom. I have used everything from a TS, jointer, edge sander, block plane...whatever you have that will get the job done and that you are comfortable using. The block plane is probably the "safest" as it is less likely that you might take off too much material.

YM

[Loren Hedahl]

I get beautiful results with my Festool TS55 circular saw and guide rail when fitting inset cabinet doors.

But the other methods mentioned are just fine also.

The trick is to make your first cut a smidgen fat. Then take as many fine trim cuts as necessary to get your perfect fit.

[Bert Johansen]

Robert, I read somewhere (sorry, don't remember where) about modifying butt hinges to eliminate the gap you describe. One way mentioned was to place the hinge in a vise with the hinge pin above the vise jaws. Then just close the gap with brute force from the vise. I would suggest placing the hinge between a couple of maple blocks so as not to mar the hinge.

[Karl Brogger]

First thing I do is set the door against the stile and check to see how well it fits against the rail above and below the door. If all is good for squareness, an edge sander is terrific for sizing doors and/or getting them to fit the hole. Rarely do I get one that would be perfect, and just has to be resized.

Depending on what hinges you are using it can be difficult to get doors to set back if they are the same thickness as the faceframe. I do all concealed hinges and with the mount behind the frame style I haven't found one that works, other than making the face frame thicker so the backside is on the same plane. Another word of caution for concealed hinges, they don't like to function with anything less than a 1/16" gap. They will rub against the hinge side of the face frame.