air system for shop

[Bill Sams]

Hi all, I'm wanting to run "air" throughout the shop and plan on using 3/4" copper tubing with brass tees and ball valves. I'm wondering whether to reduce the 3/4" copper down to 3/8" NPT or 1/4" npt?
Any advice, suggestions, experiences regarding running "air" would be most appreciated. Thanks

[Bobby Hatfield]

Bill be sure to leave it 3/4" to all take offs where you plan to use an air tool or spray gun. They all need high volume large lines. Just an air hose blow gun can get by on 1/4" but not the air tools.

[Joe Suelter]

Bobby, I'm planning on plumbing my shop air comp. soon to hard line, so your saying use 3/4" pipe for the main trunk, I was originally planning on 1/2", but can be easily diverted if 3'4" is better. Makes sense I guess.

[Dr. Zack Jennings]

Rubber Hose?

A friend of mine that heads up special projects for a Winston Cup team suggested I run "exposed" air lines with rubber hose: Cheap, easy to trouble shoot and repair. He did say don't put it into a wall & don't use PVC. Black Iron has rust problems and Copper is expensive.

Is there trouble with rubber? Any Advice?

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Bill, don't forget to add "Drip Legs" where you make your drops for your connections. This drip leg, with the addition of a Gate, or preferrably a Ball Valve, will allow the condensate in the line to fall past the connection, and the line can be purged via the valve on occasion. Air tools are not fond of moisture, and most failures occur from the tools getting moisture from the air supply line. Just something to think about...................

[Howard Barlow]

Originally posted by Kevin Gersty
Bill, don't forget to add "Drip Legs" where you make your drops for your connections. This drip leg, with the addition of a Gate, or preferrably a Ball Valve, will allow the condensate in the line to fall past the connection, and the line can be purged via the valve on occasion. Air tools are not fond of moisture, and most failures occur from the tools getting moisture from the air supply line. Just something to think about...................

I once read somewhere, so it must be true, that the "cool" of steel pipe caused the condensation from the hot air. Plastic, copper, etc won't do it. Anybody have experience with the other stuff to say for sure?

[Bill Sams]

[Kevin, I noticed at the hardware store they had brass 90's for for 3/4" copper with small screw type relief valves in the bottom of the 90. I was thinking of using those on the drop legs and yes using one ball valve for the main run.
How the regulators and filters, how big, what brands and what to look out for?
Thanks All!!!

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Bill, the brass 90's you describe with the bleeder valve will work for your drip leg drain. Air lines do get consensate in them, no matter what material the line is. We have Copper lines run througout the College where I am employed, and they get water, and plenty of it in places. As far as regulators and filters go, there are several companies that make these, and they are all pretty much the same. Some of the top names are Devilbiss, Binks, Campell-Hausfeld and Chicago Pneumatic. I have looked at the units at Sears, and they appear to be good also. The Regulators are rated in PSI they will handle, and also in CFM, which is basically governed by the inlet/outlet size. Unless you are using Air Tools that require a TON of CFM, like Impact Wrench's, Air Ratchets, and most grinders, Air Files, Etc., 1/2" air line should do you fine. If you have a relatively short trunk line run, you could do that in 3/4", then reduce to 1/2" for your station drops. Nailers, drills and most DA sanders have a lower air requirement, and 1/2" should be plenty for them. Good luck!

[Mike Brewster]

1/4" NPT the the most common size. 3/8 are available & even 1/8 & 1/2" but around here 1/4" is available everywhere.