Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Thread: Phil Thien's Baffle (on a DC) Seems to Work

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seabrook TX
    Posts
    475
    The entire canister is gone leaving only the metal body. It's a real short distance from the inlet to the discharge port! Basically, it just spins out the larger particles. I expect that the smaller particles float away into the yard where they are washed to a drain by our frequent rains.

    Like I said, acceptable performance for a shop that has rollup doors on both ends and a cross breeze. Not great, but acceptable.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    105
    If you duct the fine dust outside,is it loud? The neighbors might hate me. Would the sound be muffled if I blew the air/dust down say 6'' off the ground?

    I don't have DC now but this sounds simple and easy.

    I have radiant infrared heat( it heats the objects under it not the air) so this might be fairly energy efficient. I wouldn't want to blow a lot of air
    outside if I had conventional heat that warmed the air.

    Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.

  3. #18
    Mike/David,

    Do you have an upper baffle with a 7 "or 8" hole in the center, or just a single lower one with a 240 degree cutout around the edge?

    Also, Mike - I PM'd you.

    Thanks-

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Warren View Post
    So you still have the canister in place, but it's open on top?
    Interesting, I live in the Chicago area so I heat and air condition my shop at times, but, most of the time they aren't necessary. If I could vent outside from the top of my canister w/gate that would be a perfect setup.

    Mike

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seabrook TX
    Posts
    475
    Edward, I just have the PT baffle below the inlet. The 7-8" top opening free vents into the plastic shed which has a spring opening door and various holes in the side. It hasn't seen much use since it was installed. Been busy putting French cleats on the walls and installing air conditioner #9. When I use it for a while, I'll post some pictures on the low cost setup.

  6. #21
    Thanks for all the input so far from everyone.

    I am going to install a DC system in my limited space garage and am trying to be as efficient with my space, time, and money as possible. I believe what I'll end up doing is a PT baffle in my 2hp DC, but then removing the top filter and putting a big "can" up there with an 8" or 10" chimney to exit high on my roof, almost 30 feet up and on the backside of my house. The 8" duct is twice the area of the 6" duct while the 10" is 3x the area of the 6". I just can't imagine any significant debris making it that high up in an oversized duct with a PT baffle provided the PT baffle is as good as people are experiencing.

    If this all works out, my DC can be out of the way with the only accessible part being the collection bin on the bottom.

    BTW, are you guys still using a 1.25"gap for the 240 degree cut-out?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Shorewood, WI
    Posts
    897
    Dave MacArthur:

    If you are confused about what the setup is, start by looking at the first of Phil Thein's links provided above:

    For those wishing to modify existing single-stage DC's:
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74713

    In that thread are two photos. The first shows you what the DC looks like from on top, if you take off the filter. You see the metal ring with a hole in the center that is a part of the original DC. Through the hole, you can see the baffle.

    The second photo is a shot looking up from underneath, with the bag removed. You see mostly the Thein baffle. Note where the inlet comes in, and that the baffle covers the bottom with a 1 1/4" gap, except for a region near the inlet. The orientation of the baffle opening to the inlet is probably very important.

    So all you need to do to modify the DC is to make and install the Thein baffle. Where do you put it? It is placed (as stated by Phil) 1" below the bottom of the inlet. Note that the metal ring is parallel, but above the inlet.

    I hope this helped.

    Alan

    Edited to correct 1 1/2" to 1 1/4".
    Last edited by Alan Schwabacher; 04-12-2008 at 4:26 PM.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Seabrook TX
    Posts
    475
    Edward,
    I used the 1.25" gap, 270 degree angle. My only change was to attach a garbage bag to the outside of the DC which let me lower the PT baffle another 3/4".

    Let us know how your elevated air discharge works out. I've wondered about the impact, but never messed with doing anything. Sounds like a good idea.

  9. #24
    Another detail question for Mike et al:

    It looks like in your photo that you have a 6" duct going down from the impeller/blower, and then you reduce it to 5" just before the 90 degree going into the separator. Am I correct?

    And - do most 1.5hp and 2hp DCs have a 5" inlet to the separator?

    I was surprised when I actually took a look at mine and measured it (a grizzly 2hp). I expected it to be 6" and it is closer to 5". I am wondering if I should modify it to 6".

Similar Threads

  1. Phils Thien's miter sled and Incra gauge
    By Michael Weber in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-29-2008, 4:07 PM
  2. Improving airflow in DC with Wynn canister
    By David Romano in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 27
    Last Post: 01-30-2008, 10:15 PM
  3. Phil Iron's Toolgate
    By Gary Garmar in forum Turner's Forum
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 01-17-2008, 9:50 AM
  4. To Phil Wherever You Are
    By James Mittlefehldt in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-07-2006, 7:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •