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Thread: Technique: Wall Paneling with plywood

  1. #1
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    Technique: Wall Paneling with plywood

    I'm working on a big study job right now that is getting paneled with cherry. I'm using 1/4" cherry for both the frames and the panels. Why 1/4" ply for everything? Well, 1/4" cherry ply = $53/sheet. 3/4" cherry ply = $73/sheet. 1/2" MDF = $12/sheet. I'm only saving a few dollars "per sheet", ($53 + $12 versus $73) however I am overcoming the potentials hazards outlined below.

    The study walls started, of course, with uneven, non-plumb, non-flat walls. And, every random multiple of 16", there is that extra outward or inward bow where a stud is recessed or proud, causing the sheetrock to follow in a curve.

    I thought about how I would panel the walls, and avoid these annoyances left for me by the framers & sheetrockers. I searched the internet and all my woodworking / home improvement / remodeling books, and could never really find a process that was detailed enough to step me through a technique for high-end, floor to ceiling, precision paneling. After thinking about it for a couple months as I worked on other projects, I came up with a method that has seemed to work great, but probably took a little extra time.

    I knew that I wanted a 1/2" difference between the raised framing members and the recessed flat panels. So, I started with 1/2" MDF and applied it for the framing base members. Here is a shot of a wall in the MDF-framed stage.

    (Hover over the pictures with your mouse for alternate text, describing each photo)

    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_MDF_framing.jpg" alt="1/2 inch MDF framing over sheetrock">

    I attempted to arrange the 1/2" MDF so that I would not have seams in the sames places where there would be seams for the 1/4" plywood. However, there are some places that I either forgot or it just didn't work out. I knew the unevenness of the walls would cause me grief if the seams for both layers were in the same place.

    I put the 1/2" MDF up with paneling adhesive and 2" screws where I hit studs. The paneling adhesive was OK, but next time I'll use construction adhesive. Better tack and a firmer grab.

    Now, this step is where using 1/2" MDF under 1/4" ply REALLY paid off instead of just using 3/4" plywood for the framing members. After the MDF was up, I took my 50 grit belt sander and made all uneven butt joints flush. This was a key step in helping me align the 1/4" plywood seams laters. I could not have removed enough material in the 3/4" plywood without losing veneer as bad as these walls were.

    Now, all I had to do was cut 1/4" cherry ply panels to fit in the fields created by the framing members, and the apply 1/4" cherry plywood directly on top of the 1/2" MDF frames. I used 1/4" crown x 3/4" long staples and glue on all panels and framing pieces. I didn't want any hollow sounds if you tapped on the walls. Yellow glue under EVERYTHING. No staples will be seen, and the panel moulding I used covered both the staples in the edges of the framing members and the staples around the perimeter of the panels.

    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_stapling_panel.jpg" alt="Stapling the panel">

    Another subtle detail that I am adding is to the 1/4" plywood framing pieces. I cut the pieces off the sheet so that there are no veneer seams. This did waste a little ply (very little), but as I ripped the sheets up, I went through my cutlist and cut essentially whatever width I needed based on the veneer strips on the ply. This way, the framing pieces will appear to be solid wood, as there are no veneer seams on the framing pieces. One thing I learned doing this was that when plywood is made at the factory, don't count on the veneer seams to be parallel with the edges of the plywood!

    When I added inner framing pieces (like a rail between two stiles, or a stile between two rails), I but the pieces about 1/32" proud - just long enough to cause the piece to have to be bent to get it in place, but still loose enough that it could be pushed flat into place. I not only glued the backs of these pieces, but I also added glue to the ends of the pieces so where they butted together, they would stay put later on too. Here's a picture sequence of this process.

    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_adding_lower_rail_onto_MDF.jpg" alt="Getting ready to add the lower rail">
    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_tight_enough_to_bow.jpg" alt="Making sure the piece fits tight...">
    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_still_pushes_flat.jpg" alt="...but not too tight - it still pushes flat.">
    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_glue_in_corners.jpg" alt="Glue is added to the butt joint seam">
    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_all_glued_up.jpg" alt="More glue is added to the back of the rail">
    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_rail_installed.jpg" alt="All done with this rail.">

    Finally, for all vertical and (as many as I could) horizontal framing pieces, I kept the grain contiguous. This certainly added some time to the project, but again, precision work.

    Here's a shot of what it looks like now, prior to the crown, chair rail and custom base board. It's really starting to look good. This is my first wall paneling project. I'm sure there are faster ways to do it, but I don't know about a better looking end result. When you charge for precision work, (and I'm doing my best to deliver it,) it takes a little longer. (Sorry for the spots on the picture - I think I got sawdust in my camera!)

    <img src="http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/paneling_mouldings_applied.jpg" alt="Framing, panels and panel moulding installed - still waiting for chair rail, crown and base.">

    Anyways, maybe this can help someone if you are thinking about adding custom paneling to a room.


    Todd

  2. #2
    You da Master Todd, your ingenuity and craftsmanship never ceases to amaze me. Another beautiful job!
    Tony

  3. #3
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    Todd, absolutely beautiful! Very, very cool.

    Are you going to finish the paneled walls the same way you did the rest of the cabinetry?

    Keith

  4. #4
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    I put the same kind of walls up in my garage. Great job Todd, your work is beautiful
    Torre

    A lack of thoughtfulness is different than a lack of intelligence, but often has the same net result

  5. #5
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    What a totally amazing method to do this! Way to go, Todd! You ARE the master...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Well that is a clever trick if I ever saw one... Thanks for taking time out of the install to help all of us out!!!

    -Michael
    I can pay retail anywhere, so how's your service?
    Grabbing defeat from the jaws of victory one project at a time
    Maker of precision cut firewood


  7. #7
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    Todd, that ROCKS! That is a beautiful wall you have there! Can't wait for you to post some finished pics.

  8. #8
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    Great Work Todd

    I love the diamond pattern in the centre panel. Thanks for sharing. Howard
    Howard Rosenberg

  9. #9
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    Keith, essentially, yes, but more steps. The inside of the cabinets is toner, stain and lacquer. Everything else will be toner, stain, sealer, glaze, sealer, lacquer. So, same color, darker accents in the recesses.

    Torre - you must have one awesome garage!!!!

    Joe - I can't wait either - 'cuz when I post picks of it done, I'll have been paid!

    Howard, the large panel is 6' wide and 5' tall. It took two sheets of ply to make, cutting out triangles. I used the Festool circular saw and cleaned up the cuts with a block plane. How I made it is a (short) story in itself!

    Thank you all for your comments. In posting this, I merely wanted to demonstrate the technique and thought process I used, not the end result. Todd

  10. #10
    Todd...you never cease to amaze me. Very well thought out plan/solution followed by great execution. You are really putting together a beautiful study; I'm sure your customer will be thrilled in the end.

    I really appreciate you taking the time to share your clever ideas/ingenious solutions with everyone as you go through your projects. I've made mental notes of many of the things you've shared and will hopefully one day be able to apply some of the techniques in future projects.

    Thanks again for the progress report and skill training. It's going to be beautiful.

    Mike

  11. #11
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    Todd, another question for you. How wide is the crown that you are putting up in this room? I can't really get a good feeling, based on the amount of "unfinished" space at the top of the wall.

    Also, did you and the home owner ever come to a consensus as to how you are going to handle the arched window in the room? It looked like it was going to be a tricky one...

    Keith

  12. #12
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    Very clever, Todd. The plywood is a fantastic solution...you don't have to worry one iota about movement and it looks just great!

    Keep us informed as you progress. Those final albeit important touches of base/chair/crown moulding will be the key to bring it all together...those will be solid cherry.

    Are you worried at all about the thin veneer of cherry ply and your finishing? Sometimes those thin plys never look as deep as the solid hardwood when finsihed.

    I recall you posting some of the cherry cabinets you were working on but don't recall if they were finsihed and had plywood finished.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
    Very clever, Todd. The plywood is a fantastic solution...you don't have to worry one iota about movement and it looks just great!

    Keep us informed as you progress. Those final albeit important touches of base/chair/crown moulding will be the key to bring it all together...those will be solid cherry.

    Are you worried at all about the thin veneer of cherry ply and your finishing? Sometimes those thin plys never look as deep as the solid hardwood when finsihed.

    I recall you posting some of the cherry cabinets you were working on but don't recall if they were finsihed and had plywood finished.
    Here's the link to the page that talks about those cabinets. It might answer your question, Chris.

    Or.....Todd could just answer it himself, I guess....

    Keith

  14. #14
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    Keith, the crown I'm doing is a built-up crown. It starts with a panel moulding at the bottom, then a 4¼" crown, then a 3/4" cap piece. It works out to be 5 3/8" tall vertically.

    The chair rail is 6" tall and protrudes 1 9/16" from the wall at it's thickest point. It's a big chair rail.

    The base is 6" tall and is 3 pieces. And yes, all the trim is solid cherry.

    Also, just this morning, the homeowner and I agreed to revert to plan "A", in which the arched window will simply trimmed in cherry and the rest of the curve will be sheetrock and floating. I suggested he go this route since it would be pretty expensive for to even produce a sample, that he may or may not like, before executing the final "insert" in cherry. Also, he still has the option later to commision me to create an insert and apply/install it later. (Phew! - GOT...TO...GET...THIS...JOB...FINISHED...)

    Chris, I'm not worried about the thin veneer at all. By the time the toner, stain and glaze all do their "thing", even any sapwood will look the same as the rest.

    Those cherry over MDF plywood cabinets I prefinished on the interior before assembly & posted here before were the cabinets for this project. You can see them (and the rest of this project) at http://burchwoodusa.com/miscpix/Remodel/rp_study.html

  15. #15
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    Can't wait to see your step-by-step build up of the crown/chair/floor moldings. If I can come even 1/100th close to this end product in my basement finishing project, I'll be happy....

    Keith

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