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Thread: Router and Table questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
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    830

    Router and Table questions

    Hello, all,

    Although I've been messing with woodworking for a number of years, I just finally bought my first router, which I plan to mount semi-permanently in an auxiliary table on the right side of my Powermatic 64A contractor's saw.

    I have a couple of questions regarding this project:

    1. The right-hand edge of the cast iron wing of my saw has a long-radius curve in it, as well as small quarter-rounds on the outside corners. I want to have my router table edge mate up to this irregular edge as smooth and flush as possible. I considered trying to "scribe it in" and cut it on my bandsaw but I can see that turning into a disaster, and I don't want to have to build another torsion-box router table. (I used plywood instead of MDF, and it took some time to clamp up and glue, etc.)

    I believe there's a way to trim the edge of the table using a straight router bit with a bearing on the end of it, such that the router table will match up to the cast iron wing perfectly, but I'm having a little trouble visualizing exactly how to do this. Can anyone give me any advise on how? Is there a way I can have the bearing on the router bit ride against the edge of the cast iron table (to the south) while simultaneously cutting the edge of the wooden router table (to the north)? How would I jig that operation?

    2. I see that some of the Powermatic 64s they sell rigged with a router table from the factory have a couple of auxiliary legs on the outside of the router table. My question is, is this necessary? It's a fairly heavy table saw, with two cast iron wings, and my router isn't that heavy (Freud FT3000VCE, about 13 pounds), and I don't really see the auxiliary legs doing much of anything, being that the fence rails are made of fairly heavy angle iron, and I can't imagine the weight of the router and table "springing" them much, if at all, on my 30-inch fence. What do you folks more experienced with this sort of thing think? Should I put any legs on it?

    Thank you for any replies. I just discovered this site, and it looks like a real wealth of information and experience.

    Jacob.
    Last edited by Jacob Reverb; 04-03-2008 at 9:00 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ - near Phoenix
    Posts
    1,261
    You will need to make a template from 3/4" MDF or plywood to mate to the curved end of the saw table. You can shape the template roughly with a jig saw and then trim it to an exact match with sanders. Once you have made the template, then use the template to trim the curved edge of your table extension with a router and template bit with a bearing to ride on the template.

    If you extension table is small, you can probably get away with supporting it using the fence angle irons. You can always add legs after the fact if you are not happy with the result.
    Dave Falkenstein aka Daviddubya
    Cave Creek, AZ

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
    Posts
    1,133
    I would agree, that there are several methods of shaping your torsion box to meet the edge of your table. You can get it close with a jigsaw, bandsaw, coping saw, etc. After that, you will want to fine tune it with sanders. By creating a template that fits perfectly, you can use your router to trim it flush, though I would expect some sanding afterwards too.

    The closer you can get to the final dimension in the rough stage, the less you will have to smooth it with sanders and such. Take your time, though. This is one of those things that will haunt you if you hurry through it and do not like the final fit.

    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    34
    To you question on the legs. I too added a router table to my table saw. I have a PC 890 mounted to it. My TS is a delta with two cast iron wings and 30" fence. I thought the added weight of the router would not need legs. I was wrong. Some of that was due to the design of the table itself and the way I mounted it. I went the low tech route and just used some left over maple to make some legs and put some leveler screws on them.

    Setting up my router this way has made my life in my shop much easier. I have a very small space and need to conserve as much as possible. Hope you are as happy with your new set up as I am.

    John
    Last edited by John Pahl; 04-03-2008 at 11:51 AM. Reason: spelling

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
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    830
    Thanks, everyone, for the replies.

    Another question:

    If I were to clamp a piece of MDF to the edge of my cast iron TS wing, could I then use a router with a straight "flush trim" bit (with a bearing on the end) to cut through the MDF (i.e., not just trimming the edge of the MDF, but cutting a channel all the way through) to yield a "male" and "female" template of the curve on the edge of the cast iron TS wing?

    And then, could I use the "female" template with the router and same flush-trim bit to transfer the curve/contour to the edge of my wooden router table? (In other words, when everything is done, the router table will have a "female" or concave curve on its edge that will match the "male" or convex curve on the edge of the TS wing.)

    I guess what my question boils down to, is, Can I use a straight flush-trim bit to cut through the middle of a piece of MDF, or must one side of the cut always be "open" to allow for chip ejection and clearance? (As long as I can do that, I think this will work to make the template I need...)

    Sorry if this is a dumb question or if my explanation of the problem is tiresome, but I'm new to this whole router thing, and basically feeling my way around in the dark...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    East Virginia
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    830
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Reverb View Post
    Sorry if this is a dumb question
    Well, it sure was a dumb question! After screwing around for about an hour, I realized the "female" side of the template would be too big! How much too big? The width of the router bit too big! Duh!

    Good thing my Dad (an expert woodworker in his time) isn't around anymore to ask these questions...he'd be ashamed of his goofball spawn!

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