This should work on the non-vs Jet 1014 as well, although I haven't personally looked at that motor's insides. You'll have to open up your motor and cut/solder some wires, which isn't difficult, but if you're not careful you'll be buying a new motor and wishing you never read my post.I doubt Jet will honor your motor warranty after this mod, as well they shouldn't -- you'll now be your own warranty station.
Sorry there's no pictures -- the ones I took were too blurry to be useful. Maybe I need to cut back on the coffee or switch to Moxie.Oh, and why have reverse? Sanding is more effective when done in both directions, and some folks like to do their bowl work where they can see the gouge tip without yoga stretches.
The Jet's AC motor has two sets of windings inside the housing, running and starting, each of which produce a magnetic field when electricity passes through them. The starting winding has a capacitor inline (inside the little box on the side of the motor), which causes enough difference in the two magnetic fields to start the rotor moving. If the starting winding connections are flipped to the opposite of normal, the motor will start and run backwards.
You could use a DPDT switch, similar to the reverse modification for the VS motor, but I couldn't find one without a center-off position nor figure out a clean way to install it. So I went with a 4-way house light switch, which has two inputs and two outputs, making the connections simple -- power as input, and start windings as output. The switch was mounted in a metal handy box, attached to the back rail low enough where it won't interfere with the banjo. It needs to be in a place where you won't accidentally bump it, as flipping the switch with the motor running won't be good for the motor.
Before:
After:
In addition to a switch and housing, you'll need four 16ga wires to hookup the switch -- I found 16/5 thermostat wire at the hardware store -- along with some shrink-tubing or some quality electrical tape. I ran the wiring out a 3/8" hole in the side of the capacitor housing, using a grommet to protect the wire from the sharp edges and (mostly) seal the hole.
With the (unplugged) lathe upside down on the workbench, remove the three screws and wire clips on the rear lathe rail, then unmount the motor. Remove the fan covers, fan, and drive pulley. The wire connections to the windings are inside the end opposite the pulley, and it's easiest to work on the motor upright with the driveshaft stuck in a bench dog hole. There's four long bolts & nuts lengthwise holding on the motor endcaps which need removed, then carefully pry the endcap off the motor. The shaft bearing is what's holding it on, so be as gentle as you can, and work your way around the edge until it lifts off. There's two screws holding on the capacitor housing, which also needs to be removed. Note there's a screw on the motor's side near the endcap which doesn't need removed -- it connects the ground wire inside the motor.
Now you're looking into the end of the motor and seeing the rows of copper windings, with several wires coming from them into soldered & taped connections. The copper wires look bare, but they're actually covered in a varnish coating -- be careful not to ding or scratch any of them. Six wires come out from four places in the windings themselves, two pairs from the running windings, and two singles from the starting windings.
There's three wires (black/white/green) coming in from the power switch, with black and white going to soldered & taped connections. Look carefully at these connections and you'll see the running winding wires (there's two together going to the black wire connection, and two together going to the white wire connection). Remember the starting winding is inline with the capacitor, and you'll see one of the capacitor wires connects to the power (black or white) wire connection (along with the running windings) and the other connects to the starting winding. The other end of the starting winding connects to the other power wire (along with the other running windings).
Once you've got a good picture of how things are connected, remove the tape on both the black & white connections and unsolder or carefully cut loose the capacitor wire and the starting winding wire -- leaving the other wires soldered together.
Now look at your 16/5 wire, and decide which colored wires will be "power" and which will be "windings" -- you might want to write this down somewhere handy. Solder one "power" wire to the black connection and protect with shrink wrap and/or electrical tape. Connect the other "power" wire to the white connection the same way. Solder & protect one "windings" lead to the free capacitor wire, and the other "windings" lead to the free windings wire.
Run the 16/5 wire through the motor housing hole with the capacitor wires, then out the side of the capacitor box hole through that grommet. Now reassemble the motor, taking care not to pinch any wires or connectors, and making sure the motor still spins freely when assembled. Remount the motor and wire clips.
Two screws on the 4-way switch should be marked "input", and the "power" wires connect to them, one per screw. Connect each of the "windings" wires to the "output" screws, and mount the switch in its housing. Plug it in and test the lathe -- marking the switch with FWD and REV completes the project. Take care to let the motor stop completely before reversing.
-jon-
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