220v wiring project today..help me shop!

[Tim Morton]

I am going to FINALLY wire up my Dust collector this weekend. Yes john its true!! I found myself at the HD last night and didn't wuite have all the details...but the stuff the guy sent me home with is not correct. I am just looking for some help from those who have done it recently. 20 amp service OK? The guy sold me on 30amp. Wire he sold me 10/3...I don't mind using heavier wire, but if it is not needed, I want to get whats right. It is a 2HP Bridgewood DC and while I'm at it i thought i would change my delta 36-444 contractor saw over to 220. So any input would help. I did buy the B&D home wiring book so that i am going to rad this morning over coffee. And yes John I kow i have had the DC for almost 2 years without hooking it up...life got a little busy there for a bit, but i am back.

[Bob Wilkerson]

FWIW, I like using 10 ga wire for all my 220v(240v) circuits these days. It makes it easy to swap over to a 30A circuit in the future if the need arises. Plus it helps eliminate voltage drop if the run is long.

The second change I've made is going to 10/3 w/ground (4 wires) for my shop. Using L14-30 receptacles and plugs lets me get 220v and 120v thru one connection to a machine. This allows both 120v legs, ground and neutral. When I added a drum sander in the shop I didn't like having to run two cords to the machine to let it run as the drive motor was 120v. Now, every box gets the 4 wires run to it even if one stays capped off in dedicated circuits.


Bob
Richmond, VA

[Tim Morton]

I just noticed that they put these metal tags on the motors that give you helpfull info about that motor. Table saw says 8.6 amps at 230v and the DC says 12amps at 230v. So I think 2 15amp circuits will work fine...no?

[Mike Linne]

Run 20 amp circuit minimum for future users. Minimal or no cost difference. 3 HP motors (Cabinet saws, larger dust collector etc.) require 20 amp 220V circuit min, so you're ready for future upgrade(s).

[Tyler Howell]

Tim,I like Bob's suggestion of 10 gage. Always looking down the road. May I strongly suggest metal conduit at least "in harms way". Can take a direct hit from a 2x4 and a heavy assault from rolling machinery. Reminder to the home handy. Select a CB for the rated equipment. If it is popping under proper load there is something wrong. Fixit!! Breakers are guaranteed for only 1 operation.

[Tim Morton]

Yup i was thinking the same thing....metal conduit on the down run to protect it. Thanks. and 20 amp circuits. Now the wire 10 gauge is fine with me..am I looking for 10/2 with ground? Is that what I ask for? The stuff I have here now is 10/3 with ground. I guess I could keep it and cap off the non used wire? or better still with the 10/3 plus ground wire...could I run it too two boxes...a 110 box for portable tools, and a 220 box for the dedicated tools?

[Tyler Howell]

Yup i was thinking the same thing....metal conduit on the down run to protect it. Thanks. and 20 amp circuits. Now the wire 10 gauge is fine with me..am I looking for 10/2 with ground? Is that what I ask for? The stuff I have here now is 10/3 with ground. I guess I could keep it and cap off the non used wire? or better still with the 10/3 plus ground wire...could I run it too two boxes...a 110 box for portable tools, and a 220 box for the dedicated tools?

Going to have to look into the L14-30 Bob suggested. Have to admit I've never tried it. Local code dictates the legals. Sounds "Ideal" for a remote control project I'm putting down on paper.

The stuff you have is good. Somebody else chime in on scabbing a 110 off a 220 circ. In operation one of your legs is going to be pulling more juice than the other. CBs should be ganged together.

PS Work cold, and have a spotter standing bye. Moral support

[Tim Morton]

Just got back from my second trip to HD...went 12/3 wire since i am only going to have runs less than 25feet. And went with 20amp service, with seperate runs for the TS and DC. Thought about the 10/3 wire and locking receptacles, but as it was i spend over a hundred bucks. Thanks for all the help guys!!

[Dean Baumgartner]

Just got back from my second trip to HD...went 12/3 wire since i am only going to have runs less than 25feet. And went with 20amp service, with seperate runs for the TS and DC. Thought about the 10/3 wire and locking receptacles, but as it was i spend over a hundred bucks. Thanks for all the help guys!!

Tim, It may be too late but I just ran the 220v for my new saw and ran 10/3 w/ 30A breaker for future upgrades. The other thing I did, my breaker box is on the opposite side of the shop of where all the big tools are so I ran a 1" conduit to a pull box on the side with the tools. I'm ready with most of the work done if I need to pull another circuit for something else. Don't know if this applies to your situation but the cost difference between 3/4 and 1" isn't that much.

Dean

[Tim Morton]

Thanks Dean for the Advice...I will comprimise here, I will switch out the wire to 10/3 ( going back to the original wire i had)...and leave the plugs and breakers at 20amp. If I need to upgrade I will then buy new plugs and breakers. As for the 1" conduit, My service panel is on the wall within 10 feet of my DC and 20 feet of my Table Saw so I think I am covered there. Thanks again for making me think that one day i may trade in the ol CS for a real cabinet saw...BTW...hope you are getting some time this weekend to enjoy yours!!