Shop cabinet design

[Ray Schafer]

I am now ready to build some shop cabinets. I would like to build some very nice cabinets that I can use as a show-piece for the work that I can do. Can you point me to any designs, plans, ideas or share some pictures to help me with my design?

Comments suggestions on the following is welcome:
I want to use frame and panel doors with face-frame cabinets. I plan to use levelers for the base cabs, because the garage floor where they will be installed is not level.

I plan to use prefinished plywood for the carcass, and the doors will be shaker-style (so I am not going to attempt raised panels for this project). I am not sure what to do on the end panel -- just a matching plywood veneer or frame and panel for that as well?

Thanks for all input.

[Jim Becker]

Sounds like you already have a great plan in place. I like separate bases so they can be leveled before placing the carcasses, but recently worked with levelers on some Ikea cabinets I installed and found them to be very easy to use. Given the garage floor, that makes sense since you can make a tapered toe kick panel and install it after the levelers are, well...level.

On the end panel, make your face frame have some overlap and then use an applied panel that matches your door design, adjusting the rails and stile for proportion, etc.

[Ray Schafer]

Any suggestions on wood, and finish? I want them to be nice, but not necessarily the most expensive materials. I know that you are a BLO fan. Would you simply use BLO or stain ... or what?

[Robert Rozaieski]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=80840

Make them any size you want. All solid, inexpensive material.

[David DeCristoforo]

"I plan to use levelers for the base cabs..."

Here's a "hot tip" for you. On the wall (at the floor), attach a 2X4 "ledger" that your cabinet bases will sit on. Make sure the ledger is level. Then use the levelers on the front edge. Not only does this make it really easy to set your bases, it also means you only have to use half as many levelers and it's super stout.

[Ray Schafer]

That is a really good idea. I am trying to figure out exactly how to make that work in my case, because there is a cement ledge that slopes with the garage floor. I think it is a little too high to set the cabinet on. I was planning to put a notch in the back so that I can use the space all the way to the wall. I guess I could make the notch come up above the cement ledge and put the ledger on top of the cement ledge (but level of course).

[David DeCristoforo]

"...there is a cement ledge that slopes with the garage floor..."

That would complicate things a bit. The ledger "system" is something I have used for many years and it really simplifies installation. One thing that surprises me though is that your concrete "ledge" is not level. Typically, in a garage, the "ledge" is actually part of the foundation "stem wall" which should be level. How tall is the ledge? Maybe you could put a tapered plate on top of it instead of ledger.

[Jim Becker]

Good idea on the ledger system, David. Excellent, in fact!

[David DeCristoforo]

You just have to remember to hold the ledger back from the finished ends for your toe kick returns (if there are any) and "break" it at any under-counter appliance locations (not likely to be any in a shop!) On the finished ends, you can use the end of the ledger board to attach the TK return at the wall.

[Ray Schafer]

I will have to look tonight and see if I am wrong about the ledger slant.

I really appreciate your ideas, because, while this isn't rocket science, I want to make this my first attempt at a nice piece of work. I have done a lot of trial pieces in developing some basic skills.

I am still hoping for advice on what wood and finish to use for the frame and doors.

[Jim Becker]

Ray, use the wood that you like for the project. What is most important is that it's stable material so that you can construct your project without having to fight it. If you want to keep the cost down, poplar, soft maple or birch are good choices and they can be dyed nicely if you want to add color. You can use something "interesting" for door panels or just keep them plain. As to a finish...I'd use BLO and shellac and be done with it.

[Ray Schafer]

Do I need to use a respirator to apply the BLO and shellac?

[Ed Peters]

especially for shop cabinets, is clear lacquer. Nothing is easier to apply (spray) and nothing is faster to dry. Probably would steer clear of any staining as the dents and dings will look doubly bad at the point of impact.

Ed

[Joe Chritz]

You don't need a respirator for BLO but you will if you spray shellac. It is a good choice for shop cabs, although mine are finished when I have a little left over from some other project. Some sealcoat only, some Bullseye shellac, some poly, etc, etc.

The ledger system for installing bases is something I have been using for a bit now as well. Although I build a full sub base with the back and sides narrower than the front. The front sits on the floor and the back gets leveled left/right front/back and screwed to the wall. Leg levelers for the front is something I am going to try on the kitchen buffet built in I am just starting on.

Depending on how you set up is, could you just do a taller toe kick to get over the ledger? You could also get really fancy and do an 8" tall kick and add some drawers. Either on runners or some that slide on wood tracks.

Very rough sketch up.

Joe

[Bert Johansen]

Sam, here is my solution for nice shop cabinets. The face frames are solid jatoba and the drawer fronts are resawn veneer (1/4-inches thick) over half-inch plywood. I used a 2x4 frame for the base and leveled it before attaching the cabinet.

The trim wood is bamboo, from some left-over flooring.

The third photo is my router table. Same wood combination but somewhat different use of the bamboo.