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Thread: Painting closet shelves

  1. #1

    Painting closet shelves

    I have been reading several posts, and I think I have my answer but I want confirmation and comments. I am painting closet shelves and trim, and I would like to use the same material on both, if possible. The shelves are 12 inch wide pine shelves (some painted already and some not), and I would take suggestions if there is better shelving material but I need 12 foot long sections. I was planning to prime with Bulls Eye 1-2-3 waterborne primer and then paint with SW Proclassic interior acrylic gloss enamel. On some other forums, I have read that with using anything but oil, I will have the “sticky” shelf syndrome. Please advise on all. The SW Proclassic oil is the best paint I have ever used, smooth and no brush marks but I hate the cleanup of oil. Thanks for you help.

  2. #2
    If you can find Insl-X Cabinetcoat (They sell it at the Ace near me), I'd recommend it over reg latex

    It's a urethane latex product. Minimal blocking (sticky shelves). Cleans up with water.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 04-10-2008 at 1:49 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,850
    ProClassic 100% acrylic (which is NOT a latex paint) should not have the 'blocking' issue that latex paints will have. You don't need to use the oil-based version if you prefer water clean up, etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    OK, thanks, do you recommend using a brush or nylon roller to apply the Proclassic?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lafayette, IN
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    Lee, if you have a fair amount of 12"-wide shelves to paint, go with a soft-woven 9"x1/4" to 9"x1/2" roller. And, if you're keeping them flat/horizontal during the painting and drying process, don't be afraid to use some paint--SW ProClassic levels very well when put on heavily, but it will sag on vertical surfaces if you're not careful. Not a problem if it's put on a horizontal surface, though. Then you can lay it on pretty thick.

    Me, I'd setup in a garage and go at it with an airless sprayer and a drying rack, then a fan and/or heater so I could get done. Not that I've ever done this before...
    Jason

    "Don't get stuck on stupid." --Lt. Gen. Russel Honore


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,850
    You could very well use both a brush and roller to apply the product...the roller will speed up application the large surfaces. Be sure to use the correct roller cover for the product...the SW folks can guid you on that...and it appears that Jason already has made a great recommendation. (He's way too modest, too... )
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    I think I will stick with rolling or brushing. I also need to paint my floor trim, and I am now worried about this "sagging" thing. I do not need any additional help with runs, I can get them all by myself.

  8. #8
    Lee,

    I sometimes use a foam brush on trim. You can't load it up like a brush so you may need 2-coat, and it is slower, but can provide more control in spots.

    Charlie

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
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    2,924
    Jason is the guy to listen when it comes to painting.

    I haven't done many paint projects but for paint I use SW ProClassic for anything but the walls. I am not familiar with that primer but anything that will block the knots from showing on pine will work.

    As already mentioned the sticky is not from water base it is from the latex.

    If you have a lot to do then a spray set up will save much sanity.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  10. #10
    Thanks for all the input, it was a great help. Nice forum.

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