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Thread: Sliding Barn Doors

  1. #16
    These guys have alot of track options: http://barndoorhardware.com/barn_door_hardware.htm

    -Norm

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    125
    Thanks, Chuck!

    Jamie, I don't have the link for the manufacture with me at the moment, but I ordered it through my local ACE hardware store. They are the only ones that could get it. I had to go with 36" radius because they don't make 24" anymore. It wasn't cheap, if I remember right, it retailed for over $200 each. The guy I ordered it through knocked it down to $165 and then after it got lost in shipment he knocked it down to $145. Needless to say, he has a customer for life!!!

    Off the top of my head I think the hardware (straight rails, curved rails, hangers, rollers, bolts, 2x2 angle iron, misc stuff) ran $500-$600. The door/wall, maybe another $100 by the time I get the locking hardware and handles.

    An insulated, good quality overhead door would have cost me at least that, and well over a thousand for a roll up w/insulation. Neither one of those would give me the R-value and sound deadening of this one. Then of course there's the self satisfaction of conceptualizing, designing and building something like this.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    125
    Found ithe link for the curved rail. Note: The online catalog is outdated, they only carry the 36" not the 24".
    http://www.natman.com/prodinfo_itemd...=1245&item=487

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    KY but subject to change.
    Posts
    243

    Bi folds?

    I'm just getting started building my shop and the people who provided my plans also designed a bi-fold door arrangement. It looks like a slider when closed but operates just like a heavy duty version of a pair of closet doors. Ill be able to seal against the insulated doors when they close and there is no sliding contact to wear or distort the seals. They are hinged at either side of the opening using regular door hinges and suspended on the ends with rolling track like you'd use for a slider. I can't say how well they work in the real world yet but in my make believe shop, they work great.
    Jim
    Growing older is mandatory.
    Growing up is entirely optional.

    Remember; it's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  5. #20
    I found hardware that a friend of a friend has on his metal buliding doors, sliding barn door type. The hardware is a "Cam Action Jamb Latch, Zinc, For Use On 1-1/2" Or 3-1/2" Thick Door Frames. Made by NATIONAL MFG. CO. Haven't seen it yet but the adjustable rods are described by my pal to be about 3/8" which should be stout enough. There are several places on the web selling them - best price I saw was at:
    http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/Categories

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    O'Fallon IL
    Posts
    492
    Interesting. Anybody heard of anyone using pocket doors? It would seem to me they could solve the sealing problem, at least around the sides and top, and take up less space than the (very clever) curved track doors pictured here.

    Kirk

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Saugus, Kelpafornia
    Posts
    607

    Why do you call them "Sliding Doors"???

    They hang from an overhead track on rollers.
    My Dad had a place in Oregon that had these type doors on the big shop.
    Yeah, they leaked some air, but not a huge amount. When shut, a hook and eye was used to pull them close to the opening and hold them there.
    I've always admired these simple hung doors rolling on their substantial rails.
    And if they "slide", you better be lubing your wheels bearings, BobbO!
    I have a high quality paneled roll up door on my garage shop and it seals almost too tight. But I don't have the space for hung doors in the first place anyway.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    St. Stephen, South Carolina
    Posts
    159
    james, do you have a photo of those bifold doors?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Pueblo, Colorado
    Posts
    230
    I had the same leak problem with my door. I had some old track rollers that fit perfectly inside some 2x2x16ga. tubing. With a straight edge and a plasma cutter I cut the groove. To solve the leak problem I bent up some break metal. Started it as flashing and bent it down and around over the sliding door track. Works great. Here is a before shot.




    And here is an after shot.
    Last edited by Kent E. Matthew; 12-21-2008 at 2:37 PM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    KY but subject to change.
    Posts
    243
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Crawford View Post
    james, do you have a photo of those bifold doors?
    Todd,
    Unfortunately, the weather here hasn't cooperated so all I have to show on my shop build is a real nice, flat muddy spot. The drawings look nice but I can't say how they'll work and what I'll need to do to get them more weather-tight than a "normal" barn. I'll post pics when and if the rain stops long enough to get the foundation done.
    Jim
    Growing older is mandatory.
    Growing up is entirely optional.

    Remember; it's never too late to have a happy childhood.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by jamie buxton View Post
    On his shop door, he uses the standard barn-door track and wheels to slide the door back and forth. However, he hung the door from the wheels with chains. Before it is latched, the door hangs an inch or so away from the building. He built four cam-clamp thingies which grab the inside of the door and pull it toward the building. Because the door is hanging on chains, it can move toward the building and seal all the way around.

    The door is long enough that it overlaps the floor slab, and seals at the bottom just like at the sides and top. His seals are thick foam things intended for sealing the bottom of a roll-up door to a slab.

    I have a similar setup on my kiln. I have a 10' x 24' 600 lb door that rests on the floor of the kiln. I use 2 winches to pick it up and then roll it away on 2 extra heavy duty, 4 roller trolleys. I used 3/4" auto heater hose for the gasket. On both sides and the top I pull it in with cam latches that are normally used on pole barn sliding doors.


    DOOR_CRANK_2_FF.jpg DOOR_CRANK_3_FF.jpg

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