220 Outlet Wired Straight from the Box?

[Chris Jenkins]

Danny,

If I understand everything correctly here, then you want to go from the 220 Breaker, out the front of the panel (since you don't have access the sides or top and bottom) straight to a machine.

I did this in a sense once. I did come out the side of the panel, cause I could. Most importnatly about coming out the sides or top of the box is that you can put in a strain releif. This is WAY important as if you run soft line (drop cord) and trip on it you can really do some sparky damage in the eletrical box. The strain relief prevents the leads from being tugged on in the panel and who knows what is going to happen inside the panel

I only did it during a construction phase of building my shop for a few nights till I had proper power pulled. I've been at a few construction sites where they do the same.

Hope this helps, that is if I had the correct image in mind.

Chris

[Rob Russell]

Running a cable right out of the front of a panelboard sounds pretty cheesy to me.

Even if your garage is fully sheetrocked, you could install a flush-mount box next to it with a conduit nipple to connect your panelboard to the box. That way you can have a clean installation for a 240v receptacle.

JMO.

Rob

[Roger Warford]

I'm not an electrician. I didn't even sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but I'm guessing a line coming out the front of a panel isn't up to code. I would think it would be simple to knock out one of the bottom knockout's and drop a line straight down to an outlet mounted flush in the wall.

Even if you had to cut a small access hole to make it work, dry wall is easy enough to patch.

Electrical is not the place to take short cuts. If you accidently let the smoke outa them wires, bad things happen.

[Rob Russell]

I don't think there is anything in the NEC that would prohibit a properly installed cord coming out the front of a panelboard. I still think it's a bad idea. An inspector could flag it under 110.12 "Electrical equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner", claiming that comng out the front of the panelboard is not "workmanlike". There is no definition of "workmanlike" in the NEC's Definitions section, so this would be a subjective call on the inspector's part and therefore rather difficult to dispute.

Most panelboards that I've seen have screw-down covers. Unless you have a hinged cover, what are you going to after you have this cord coming out of your cover and need to remove the cover to install a new breaker? You take the cover off and ... you have this piece of cord running to the breaker ... what do you do with the cover? You don't want so much cable inside the panelboard that you can put the cover on the floor - how would you neatly run the cable inside the panelboard when you put the cover back on?

As Roger pointed out - sheetrock work is not difficult.

Rob
Addy protocol: unlicensed, homeowner electrician

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Rob. And it would be easy to cut in an old-work box just below the panel (carefully to avoid any supply lines if they come in from the bottom) and then work the appropriate size wire between the panel and the box.

[Chris Padilla]

Lottsa ways to skin this cat!

[Danny Thompson]

This sounds good. Flushmount box below the panel to house an outlet. Right? Using the same panel exit path, or a similar one, as the other outbound wires. If none exists, add a nipple to protect the wire.

[Chris Padilla]

Danny,

I guess it depends on how the panel connections are done: in conduit or strain-reliefed romex (no conduit). You may need to pop a knock-out and use a very short nipple or you might be able to share an existing opening. There might be rules on how many wires can share one knock-out.

Just don't forget that you need a bit of space from the panel because you still need to get the outlet cover on nice 'n clean.

Odds are decent that if you use a rigid nipple of 2-3" length, it'll help support the box and provide adequate clearance.

[Jim Becker]

For this application, the snap-in plastic grommets make for an easy solution to get your new wire out of the box. The existing exits may be filled. In any case, be sure to kill power to the panel before you start trying to push things around. And remember to cut the hole for the old-work box, pull the wire and THEN install the box.

[Jack A Entrekin]

ok, if I under stand you want to wire the 220 tool (say a table saw) directly to the panel? If so you must have a disconnect within 5 feet of the tool. Some applications require a LOCKABLE disconnect but if this is in a home shop that will not be the case (that is for factories and /or plants to prevent accidental power ups) hope this will help.

[Charlie Knauer]

It is a violation to bring the cable through the cover. It will also void the UL listing of the cover and panel. You can not run rubber cord as a wiring method. It is fine as an appliance cord but can not be used as a wiring method.
Charlie

[Gary Lange]

I personally think you should get and electrician to run the wiring you are needing. I had a guy come out and do mine by asking for someone over on my Fishing sites. He charged me $80.00 and wired up three 220 outlets and one 110 outlet. I had already run the wires though.

[Rob Russell]

It is a violation to bring the cable through the cover. It will also void the UL listing of the cover and panel. You can not run rubber cord as a wiring method. It is fine as an appliance cord but can not be used as a wiring method.
Charlie

Charlie,

I'm not challenging your assertion - I have some questions because this is a great opportunity to learning from a licensed electrician (at least, electrician is what's in your profile).

What is it about running a cable through the cover that's a violation? Let's get past the idea that it's not a good idea, because I know it's not a good idea. Also assume a hinged cover so the whole issue of removing the panelboard cover isn't a problem. Assume the cord was installed through a properly sized hole with appropriate strain relief for the cable.

What in the NEC would preclude such an installation, other than an AHJ saying it's a dumb idea? In terms of the UL listing, I know it's acceptable to create additional openings in a panelboard for raceway installations - is that only in the body?

In advance, thanks for your expertise.

Rob

[Charlie Knauer]

Rob, the biggest issue is what do you have to go through to remove the panel cover that has a cable or cables going through the cover? Do you leave 5 or 6 feet of cable curled up inside the panel? If that is the case it would violate 110-12 ... neat and workman like manner. Other violations would include 110-3 Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing and labeling. In 34 years of installing panels I have never ran across a panel cover approved for cable entry. I have however seen butchered panel covers that needed to be replaced due to someone notching them to install a cable. They were flagged during home inspections and required replacement. Most covers are not available seperately or are obsolete.$$$
I have never encountered a residential panel that had a fully hinged cover. Perhaps a hinged door over the breakers. Any time you alter a UL listed piece of equipment you void the listing. UL White book covers this. The flexible cord would violate 400-7 b. Must be used with attachment plug and energized from a receptacle outlet.

Charlie