Finally, a better sled runner

[Bill Huber]

OK, what is the best way to line up the steel runners once I get them sized?
A have a $25.00 piece of phenolic plywood that I don't want to ruin. Should I drill my holes in the runners, then shim the bottom of my runners in the slots, and use carpet tape on the runners, and lay my board/base on the runners, remove it and screw it down?
I was thinking I want to use 2 runners, not one.

When I used steel, I use Incra aluminum now, I drilled the holes in the steel, tapped them and then as you stated shimmed them up just above the table.

Then put the double back tape on them and set the table saw fence so it was just at the correct place for the sled. Then holding the sled against the fence lowered it down on to the bars and pressed it down.

With a smaller drill bit I drilled though the tapped holes and the sled on all the holes. I then turned the sled over and enlarged the holes and counter sunk them and put the screws in.

When I made the sled with the aluminum ones I did it the same way only I used a transfer punch that would just fit in the pre-drilled and tapped holes to mark the sled. Then with a brad point bit I drilled the sled holes and counter sunk them.

[Alan Schaffter]

Frankly putting the runners on last is the backasswards way to make a sled. Cut a very shallow dado for the runner, in case you ever want to replace it then drill and tap holes in the bar and use flathead screws from the top of the sled to attach the bar.

Then, attach and square the fence.

Unless you are really ham-fisted and/or attempting to crosscut/miter really long, wide and heavy stock (which is better cut done on a miter saw) and likely to torque it, there is no need for two runners. Two runners are much more difficult to precisely align so they will slide easily. As I think someone said here, if you really want two runners make the sled in two halves and join them together.

[Bill Huber]

Frankly putting the runners on last is the backasswards way to make a sled.

Then, attach and square the fence.

Unless you are really ham-fisted and/or attempting to crosscut/miter really long, wide and heavy stock (which is better cut done on a miter saw) and likely to torque it, there is no need for two runners. Two runners are much more difficult to precisely align so they will slide easily. As I think someone said here, if you really want two runners make the sled in two halves and join them together.

I agree that the fence is the last thing you install.

I have made 3 sleds and each one has had 2 runners on them, maybe I don't need 2 runners but I have always put 2 on. I have never had a problem getting them to be precisely aligned if I put the sled base against the table saw fence and then lower it like I stated in my post above.

As far as 2 runners go, maybe I don't need them but I like the stability they give and I can place an 8/4 4" board on it and not have to worry about it wanting to skew. Everyone has their own way of doing the same thing and that is just mine.

[Anthony Diodati]

I am stubborn, I am thinking 2 is better, but I may just try one. I can always add the 2nd one if I feel I need to.
You guys that are only using one runner, is this a sled with the kerf in the middle of the base, where there is base on both sides of the blade/kerf, or are you making the kind that only has the base on one side of the blade.
I am making the kind that has the base on both sides of the blade.
The last 2 I made for my contractors saw, just had one runner, but the base only went to one side of the blade.

[Anthony Diodati]

Well, I am working on a smaller one right now, it is only about 23" wide and 13" deep. I used two metal runners, about 12" long.
My red oak fence has a slight bow to it, I had it all dialed in with a shorter piece of wood, but then cross cutting a longer piece it changed.
I have to face joint the fence, but My little delta has the cutter head out waiting for bearings.
I did learn one thing, it was sliding nice then I screwed down the back (back of the saw) fence, and it started to bind. To I marked my runners and worked it, and filled my hi spots again, and it was OK.
But then when I tightened my front fence, it got easier yet. So I think it's best to wait till both fences are screwed down till you fine tune the runners.
I used a screw in the right side of the front fence, and a 1/4" bolt into a threaded insert in the base so I can fine tune the fence. The hole the bolt passes through is over size.

The next one I have a piece of Phenolic coated plywood, it is 24 deep, X 32" wide. I may just go ahead and try the single runner with that one.
http://www.rockler.com/light-brown-p...plywood-sheets