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Thread: penblanks for segments

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Bristol, TN
    Posts
    90

    penblanks for segments

    Is there a down side to using pen blanks for a segmented vase/bowl? I just received some in the mail and the are enough that i might try this if it is doable.
    thanks,
    Russ

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Auburn, ME
    Posts
    749
    I am certainlly not expert but all the pen blanks I have seen have been rough cut on a bandsaw. Probably not good enough to glue up for a vase or bowl. Do you have a thickness sander to smooth everything out at the same thickness?

    One question I would have is the direction of the wood grain when you glue up the pieces. Is there an optimum grain pattern...it may be more difficult or easier depending on which direction the grain is going.

    Good Luck
    Greg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Texas Hill Country, USA
    Posts
    1,967
    As long as the wood is dry, you should be good to go. The only problem that I see with a traditional segmented form, is that you will be very limited in your form dimensions due to the width of the blanks. You may not be able to have any steep angles or any horizontal areas, like at the rim of a vase, and you will need to be very accurate in your measurements.

    You might also do a search as I recall a web site where there were some plates made only with pen blanks. Good luck!

  4. #4
    Should work fine if the blanks are dry and you can machine them accurately. There is an article on Malcolm Tibbetts' site about doing this exact project. Here's a link to the article; http://www.tahoeturner.com/instructi...nblankbowl.pdf

    Good luck and post some pictures when you are done.

    --
    Paul
    Last edited by Paul Heely; 05-05-2008 at 8:18 PM.

  5. #5
    I think that everything said here is correct, but one other thing you might think about is waste. When you cut segments, you need some wood on the end of your stock that you can hold onto, and that is long enough to keep it square against the miter guage or fence. Whenever I cut segments, I always have a piece left over that that is long enough to keep my fingers away from the blade. This piece will eventually be used for something, but probably not segments. With pen blanks, you start with such a short segment, that there will be a high percentage of waste. Just a thought.
    Brian

    Sawdust Formation Engineer
    in charge of Blade Dulling

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    you should make one that is from end grain, that each peice has the hole in it, that would look neat,
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Bristol, TN
    Posts
    90
    looking at making a bowl not a strainer

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Paradise PA
    Posts
    3,098
    use some turquise
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  9. #9

    Penblank bowl

    I'm not sure, but I think I remember Malcom Tibetts making a bowl from pen blanks. Could have been Ray Allen? He took the blanks and made a board / plank from them. Then finished for thickness, etc. Then cut half rings on an angle. The angle will establish the shape of the bowl. Glue the halves together, thickness and then stack the bowl. Turn and finish using your favorite mounting method :-)

    Ken

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