Best clear coat finish product for hard maple - kitchen cabinets

[Peter Luch]

How would Minwax be for a clear coat? Any opinions positive or negative on using this product on both hard maple and cabinet grade plywood?

I was sort of afraid to mention that I have been using Minwax Spar Urathane for the doors and cabinet work on my downstairs remodel.

The doors have the high gloss clear and the new cabinets have the clear satin. Everyone "wow's" at the doors.
Brused on 4 coats
After first coat 220 grit sand and then 400 grit after all the others.
Foam brush after the first coat.

Need to take some pics here pretty soon as I'm almost done.

I used the spar as its very humid here and some other finishes have problems with mold growth.

Aloha, Pete

[Jim Becker]

Pete, that will certainly work, but spar varnish is generally pretty soft due to the long oils and the specification that it be flexible. (Spars bend...) I'm wondering if there is an additive you can use with a hardier varnish to inhibit mold and mildew (much like there is for paints). If you have a "real" paint store around, it might be a good question to ask.

[Daniel Hillmer]

High humidity and heat is definitely a problem where I live in Southeast Michigan, it often gets to 90 percent plus in the summer.

[Daniel Hillmer]

Daniel, never use an oil based finish on the inside of a cabinet or furniture...the off gassing pretty much goes on "forever".

Target Coatings USL is available direct from Target Coatings or from Jeff Jewitt at Homestead Finishing.

M Revisiting this thread, ready to paint - the Target USL, is this product only for spraying? Or can it be brush or rag applied too? Or does Target have a similar product for brush application?

Also, I think I asked this question long ago on another thread, can't find it though, we are very concerned about what ever finish we use that it's food safe, would you consider the USL to be so?

[Russ Massery]

Another vote for Traget Coating USL. I used it on my Maple cabinets in 2005. It's held up great. I sealed the wood with Zinsser's Sealcoat. Then three coats of USL. And got great results with a Cheap ($40.00) HVLP gun.

[Jim Becker]

Daniel, Jeff Jewitt has instructions on his Homestead Finishing site for hand-applying USL. I do prefer to spray it, but you're not limited to that format of application.

[Daniel Hillmer]

Daniel, Jeff Jewitt has instructions on his Homestead Finishing site for hand-applying USL. I do prefer to spray it, but you're not limited to that format of application.

Would you consider if OK once it's dry to be near food and dinnerware?

[Peter Quadarella]

Daniel, if you have no experience at finishing and plan to do a whole kitchen, I would suggest you pick up a book on the topic. Most people will endorse either Bob Flexner's book or Jeff Jewitt's, and they are both excellent (I preferred Jeff's).

Definitely go through your entire finishing regimen on a scrap piece, from sanding to applying to drying, especially if this is a first time. I have not hand applied Target USL, but I personally would not attempt it as a beginner. If you are hand applying, someone recommended Waterlox and that sounds like a better idea to me.

My perspective is as a beginner who has just dabbled with the various types of finishing, to get a feel for them.

As for food safetyness - all finishes when fully cured are safe to eat off of.

[Rob Sack]

Any oil based finish will yellow the maple. On light woods I use a water borne finish when ever possible. My kitchen is mostly maple and has had a water borne finish that was applied 16 years ago and has held up beautifully without ambering the maple. The newer water borne clear finishes today are even better. Check out M. L. Campbell's Aqualente. It sprays as good if not better than conventional laquer and dries just as quickly. It is far superior to Minwax Polycrylic in both application and durability.