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Thread: core removal

  1. #16
    Gregg,
    The handle is a 13/16 opening, and you can put all sorts of 3/4 inch and smaller cutting accessories in it if you have the adapters.

    Curtis,
    Actually, that isn't safe. If you have hollowed with one of the goose neck tools, you have to have the curve off the tool rest, otherwise the tool will twist out of your hand. The McNaughton has vertical support fingers for the blades to go into to keep this twisting from happening.

    Rasmus, I will sent you a PM

    robo hippy

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Schenectady, NY
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    One word of advice...

    Quote Originally Posted by curtis rosche View Post
    to get his one off, i would say get a cheep parting tool and bend it so that its curved


    DON'T !!!

    I tried just that and will never do it again. No support or control = dangerous! Sounded good at the time though. Beat me up pretty bad and I stopped.
    Happy and Safe Turning, Don


    Woodturners make the world go ROUND!

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Goodland, Kansas
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    22,605
    Curtis ditto what Don said. My brother who is to cheap to buy the proper tools tried just that. It cracked his wrist. Now he is a firm believer that you use the proper tool or don't do it. Short cuts usually never work. Think.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Paradise PA
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    ok, the saw method sounds like it would work though, right? alot cheaper
    14x48 custom 2hp 9gear lathe
    9 inch pre 1940 craftsman lathe
    36 inch 1914 Sydney bandsaw (BEAST)
    Wood in every shelf and nook and cranny,,, seriously too much wood!

  5. #20
    Join Date
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    Stow, OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by curtis rosche View Post
    to get his one off, i would say get a cheep parting tool and bend it so that its curved
    Curtis,
    Have to rub in to defend those 51 - 61 and above.
    Here are couple pictures of demonstrators using the straight parting tool. When you have so much overhanging over the tool rest as in coring, that takes a lot of leverage to counter the force. If you bent a tool and cutting edge is not in line with the handle, the twisting torque would be so great, someone is going to get hurt. If you look at most full size bent tool, they have double bent.


    This is the picture of Doug Thompson coring the inside of the hat. I don't know how much the undercut was. I took the core out home and made a thin wall bowl. I know I max out on the bowl size, it is only 6½" dia. by 3½" tall. The core was already sticking out before the coring, the depth of the parting tool cut was not that deep. Doug was tucking the X-long handle under his arm and using his body weight as leverage.



    This was JoHannes Michelsen doing a hat demo as well. He was coring the outside rim. The core is no more than 3~4" deep. He connected two full size steel handles. He was using the leverage from 1½ handle length.



    In both cases, the straight parting tools were top of the line, not just any parting tool. If they are using so much weight and long leverage on the handle side, You can imagine the kind of stress the blade is subject to.

    In the matter of safety, there is NO substitute for experience. Joking aside , my primary intention is let other aware of the safety issue here. Coring is serious stuff. If the parting tool can be bent easily, I want to avoid it. No wood is worth cored if I have to risk getting hurt.
    Gordon

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