Cut Plexiglass on Table saw?

[Brian Backner]

Did the job very well, but man that stuff (the plexi) smells terrible after cutting it, and it wasn't even melting or anything. Left a decent cut that required only a small but of sanding to soften up and clean up the edge.

A trick I learned from a plastics worker was to pass the flame from a propane torch over the cut edge. Pass the flame back and forth at a moderate pace. The rough cut edge will soften and smooth right out, giving it a polished appearance.

Try it out on the cut off piece first, of course. And do it outside while you're at it - while it is possible to ignite the stuff, even melting it generates some horrendous odors!

Brian

[Kevin Groenke]

We cut acrylic with a tablesaw on a nearly daily basis. Use an acrylic or non-ferrous metals (aluminum) blade. These blades have carbide tips with a triple-chip grind and a negative rake angle. Any/all plastics fabricators use tablesaws to cut plastic stock.

Here are some relatively inexpensive options:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...key=THDSiteMap
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=7475
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-TK706-10...1240758&sr=1-1
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...88&dcaid=17902

With the proper blade you can get a very good cut with little-to-no chipping. For a cleaner edge, hit it with a scraper, then polish with a buffing wheel charged with polishing compound, or lick it with a flame. You can even use a jointer if you're so inclined. I'm currently looking for a 4" benchtop jointer specifically for finishing acrylic edges.

In my experience unless you use a BS blade with a high TPI and little set you will get significant chipping.

We've had mixed results with a jigsaw, with a quality ground blade it cuts pretty well.

-kg

[Leigh Betsch]

I've cut both Plexiglas (acrylic) and Lexan (polycarbonate) on the TS. The Plexiglas has much more of a tendency to melt it you rout it, the Lexan is great but much more expensive. You gotta watch out to make sure that it stays flat on the table saw or it will kick back with a vengeance. I've have several major kick backs, one that put a hole through a peg board wall in my old shop. I still cut the stuff but only with a push stick to hold of down, and I always stand off the the side. I've not cut any with my new slider but when I do I'll clamp it to the slider and not just hand hold it down.

[Guy Roland]

I cut a lot of plexi .100 and 1/8" I use a plexi cutter ( similar to a glass cutter but has a carbide tip instead of a wheel). Just score and snap. I made a straightedge out of a sheetrock square backed with 1/8" cork so it won't slip. Good for cutting glass or acrylic.

[Lee Schierer]

When cutting plastics on a TS, remember the following 10 tips:
1. Wear eye protection
2. Wear hearing protection
3. Use the finest tooth blade you can find. Note: running a carbide tooth blade backwards can dislodge the teeth
4. Keep the tips of the teeth on the blade very low so they just break through the material being cut.
5. Use a zero clearance insert
6. Either sandwich the material between two layers of wood or press the plastic down tight to the table as it passes into the blade.
7. Feed at a fast rate without forcing the cut to prevent melting
8. Make sure you leave the protective paper or plastic film on the plastic until you are completely done cutting and sanding the edges
9. You can run lexan (not acrylic) across your jointer to clean up the edges.
10. If you cut very much be prepared to clean up plastic shavings from every surface of the saw for weeks.

[David G Baker]

I did not read all of the above posts but in the past I purchased a lot of Plexiglas from Tandy Plastics. They use a table saw with a special blade designed for cutting the different plastics. It always worked well and gave a very smooth, clean cut. The blade was carbide tipped and the teeth were quite fine.
On thin Lexan and Plexiglas I use the score and snap method similar to cutting regular glass. Done right this method works quite well.
If you have a band-saw and don't want to purchase a plastic cutting blade for your table saw, the band-saw is probably safer.

[Mark Vaughn]

well ok thanks for all the replies, i went ahead and braved it on the bandsaw and it cut nicely. no chips or anything. the 1/8 plexiglass had a blue film on both sides to protect the surface and i think that helped it not chip too. thanks!

[Keith Pitman]

You can also snap plexiglas pretty easily. Use a straight edge and a utility knife to score it thoroughly, the hold it on over an edge and snap it. It gives a straight, but rough line. Then use the technique mentioned above to smooth it with a torch, if you need a smooth edge.

[Alan Schwabacher]

On thin Lexan and Plexiglas I use the score and snap method similar to cutting regular glass. Done right this method works quite well.

Score and snap sounds fine for acrylic, but not for polycarbonate (Lexan).

[Bill Wyko]

I cut up to 1" plexi with no problem. We build plexi woofer boxes on a table saw all the time.

[Johnny Kleso]

I worked several years as a pattern and model maker and cut 1,000s of feet on Acrylic (plexiglas) on a TS

Cut slow and if you have a helper blow air on the cut to cool the chips.. This will help stop the hot chips from melting onto the cut in some cases..

Use a knife or razor to scrape burrs..

[Norman Pyles]

Score and snap sounds fine for acrylic, but not for polycarbonate (Lexan).

Yep, you can bend polycarbonate in a brake, just like steel.

[jack mazzuchelli]

YES you must use a triple chip grind blade, cuts fine