Beadboard Question

[Frank Snyder]

For my next project, I'm making these Cherry cabinets...

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For the Cherry beadboard back panels, I'm using a solid 1/4" thick by 3" wide Cherry planking product which has ship-lap (half-lap) joints, not tongue-and-groove. I'm wondering what the best method is for using this product as a solid panel. My initial thought is to use some kind of construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) and glue them to a 1/4" or 1/2" thick sheet of plywood. Can anyone suggest a better idea?

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[Jim Becker]

Ship-lap planks usually should only have a few brads top and bottom to hold them in place so that they can move seasonally. But that's really thin material at 1/4" (most that I've used in this situation is more like 1/2" -5/8" thick) You may need to glue the tongues to keep them from flapping around or put a non-glued sheet good panel behind them to keep them flat. Don't glue them to the panel as it will mess up provision for wood movement.

[David DeCristoforo]

The typical method is to solidly attach the "groove edge" of each board either with nails or screws allowing the "tongue edge" to "float". This will keep everything fastened down while at the same time allowing each piece to expand and contract independently of the adjacent pieces.

[Frank Snyder]

Thanks for the advice, Jim and David. I don't think I can just pin one edge of each plank as the opposite side will be susceptible to "flapping" away given its "ship-lap" profile. It might be better to pin the centers of each plank and allow a slight gap within the overlap so each plank can expand and contract on its own. Do you think 1/2" plywood would suffice, or better to use 3/4"?

[David DeCristoforo]

Shiplap works the same way as T&G. Fasten only one side so that it holds the next piece down. Fastening in the center can allow the pieces to cup.

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[Frank Drew]

Frank

It's more work, but you might consider treating the bead board like a 1/4" panel and make a frame and panel construction for the back. The groves in the frame stiles should be deep enough to allow some seasonal movement of the bead boards. Also, you might consider a mid-rail in the frame assembly since the height of the bookcase back (5 feet at least, right?), using 1/4" stuff invites some wandering material.

Just a thought, and it's probably overkill for a built-in. Dave's advice is probably the best.

I'm not wild about glueing them to a sheet of plywood

[Around here, Philadelphia fencing is another term for bead board; it's very popular for porch ceilings, often painted sky blue or blue/turquoise. It's a great look.]

[Frank Snyder]

David - Thank you for the illustration. That helps a lot. I had envisioned something completely different from what you described previously, but this method clearly makes more sense since it addresses the cupping issue. I will use this method you suggest. Any minimum thickness for the substrate behind the beadboard? I have both 18ga. and 23ga. nailers...do you think the 23ga. would offer enough holding strength?

Frank - That's also an interesting idea. The ship-lap profile probably wouldn't work so well in a frame unless is had some kind of backing to keep the planks from flapping around.

Thanks again for the suggestions!