Woodturners: Turning wood plates.

[Bob Weisner]

Hi:

I was thinking of turning some wood plates and I have the following questions:

1. What is the best or easiest method for turning wood plates?

2. What species of wood is the best to use for a wood plate that will be used to hold regular plates?

3. What type of sealer should I use?

These wood plates will be used to set holiday dishes on.

Thanks,

Bob

[Scott Coffelt]

I have done a few, not sure I am an expert, but I have used two methods. 1) I used a 4" plate and screwed it to the blank. I had to fill holes.
2) I used a jaws kit and it created a nice small lip on the bottom.

I don't use my plates for anything other than decorations. I've used Spalted Maple, Quilted/Burl Maple, etc. The toughest thing I find is getting blanks 2x12x12.

[Barbara Gill]

I have turned many plates and platters. Usually I screw a faceplate to what will be the top. I then turn a tenon on the bottom for my chuck and shape the bottom of the plate. Except for the tenon and the area that will eventually be recessed I turn the bottom to completion, including sanding.
I then reverse the plate after removing the faceplate and chuck it up. Then I turn and sand the top of the plate.
To turn off the tenon I use Cole jaws on my chuck. I the tailstock until I am almost finished. If you don't have the Cole jaws, you can turn a slightly curved jamb chuck that the top of the plate will fit, Use something to pad the jamb chuck. I use some of the material used for router pads. Keep the tailstock in place to turn the tenon down to a little piece. Sand the recessed area. You can carefully cut the nub off with a chisel and finish sanding the little rough spot by hand.

[Jim Becker]

I use a similar method as Barbara, with the exception of using a vacuum chuck to finish off the bottom. Prior to having the VC available, I just used a jam-chuck technique that eliminated all but a very small piece under the tailstock live center which is easily carved off, sanded by hand and covered wtih finish.

[Dennis Peacock]

The others have provided you some very good information. BUT, there is yet another method to this madness.....

Glue a block of wood to the bottom of what will be the finished plate.
Let dry.
Turn the TOP of the plate.
Rough out the BACK of the plate.
Sharpen your tools.
Make the final cut on the BACK of the plate (front too if you need to).
Part the plate off the glue block.
Sand the bottom and finish as desired.

I ain't no 'spert...but I am learning.!!!

[Richard Allen]

Hi Bob

You can also use double face tape. The type of tape used for golf club grips works great.

Mount a waste block on your faseplate. True it up and sand it smooth (no need to go past 220 and 120 will work fine). Make the center part of the waste block concave.

The waste block should be about 1/2 the diameter of the intended plate.

Flatten and smooth one side of the plate stock. If you mount the plate between centers the impresion left by the cup center can help when reversing the plate.

Apply two strips of 1" wide double face tape to the preped waste block. Apply the tape with the grain about 1/4 or less in from the side.

Line up the plate stock with the grain running the same way as the tape. Press and clamp the tape block to the plate stock for a few minutes. I will often use my workmate as the clamp.

Mount it on the lathe and bring up the tailstock.

Work on the rim area. Complete the rim area, fron and back before moving on. Keep the tailstock in place for this process.

Please note that the plate will drift if you leave it sit on the lathe without the plate spinning or having the tailstock for support.

Remove as much of the plate stock as you can with the tailstock in place.

Move the tailstock out of the way and complet the front side of the plate, including sanding and finish.

Pull the plate off the tape block. Remember that the tape is running with the grain and pull in a steady fashion with the grain. The plate will be imposible to move at firast but with steady presure the plate will start to give way from the tape (as much a minute of presure is often needed to get the plate moveing). Continue to apply even presure until the plate comes free.

Often the plate is so secure with the tape that a large kitchen knife is needed to help things along.

It is important that the face of the plate be flat and smooth.

Remove the tape from the tape block and apply fresh tape.

Mount the face of the plate to the tape block and bring up the tailstock to apply presure. It is important to get the plate centered before applying presure.

Turn the bottom, sand and finish.

As for a finish, I would use a film finish like wipe on polly. You won't be eating off the plates but some food could spill onto them. The wipe on polly should provide enough protection that a damp cloth would be enough to clean the plates.

Thanks