Steel beams

[Stan Krupowies]

Hi all,

Work just got underway to convert a portion of my basement to a workshop and I have a question. We have a steel beam running down the middle of the house that will be the dividing line between finished basement and workshop. I will be building a wall at that beam. My question is, is there a good way to attach a stud wall to a steel beam, preferably under the beam rather than on the side of it? My first thought is to drill the flange and bolt a 2x4 to it. I think the steel is about 1/4" thick so it should be doable. Is there a better (easier) way to attach?

Thanks for your help.

[NICK BARBOZA]

Hilti makes a number of powder actuated tools that may be rented. Think "ramset" for concrete, except it works on steel. they make different size pins and shots depending on the thickness of flanges on the beam you are attaching to.

We use them very often in commercial construction and they work very well, however purchasing a tool like this is a bit expensive for a single use like you mention above.

Good luck,
NWB

[David Dockstader]

Glue the top cap 2x4 directly to the beam with construction glue (tubes available at any big box store), flush with one edge (you decide which side will look best with a flat wall to the ceiling). Toe-nail studs into top cap. Run wallboard up to top of beam, drywall screwing into top cap. Box out other side of beam with drywall, gluing panels and any framing to beam. Much faster and easier than drilling through an I-beam.

[Mac McQuinn]

Stan,
My basement is the same construction and I'm literally looking over my head at this moment checking out the construction method used to install a dividing wall. The "I" beam steel support posts w/ flange brackets are approximately every 5' and a 2x4 wall has been constructed to locate exactly underneath the "I" beam. The stud wall is attached by nailing heavy "U" shaped nails horizontally into the top 2X plates sandwiching the bottom edge of I-beam. It's actually pretty well done and gives you a very secure connection. I imagine you could also use a 16D nail horizontally placed into the top plate and bent over the bottom edge of beam also. Wall is then paneled on one side, partially on the other dividing shop from storage/utilities. My wall actually has a doorway in middle which is very well supported. A plus is the fact you can easily reverse the procedure and remove the wall if need be or add doors. Bottom plate is not bolted down. Top paneling edge stops at "I" beam, Top plate junction. BTW, my 16' wood storage system is located off the wall on shop side, it has supported a large amount of wood in the past with no signs of movement.
Mac

Hi all,

Work just got underway to convert a portion of my basement to a workshop and I have a question. We have a steel beam running down the middle of the house that will be the dividing line between finished basement and workshop. I will be building a wall at that beam. My question is, is there a good way to attach a stud wall to a steel beam, preferably under the beam rather than on the side of it? My first thought is to drill the flange and bolt a 2x4 to it. I think the steel is about 1/4" thick so it should be doable. Is there a better (easier) way to attach?

Thanks for your help.

[Stan Krupowies]

Glue the top cap 2x4 directly to the beam with construction glue (tubes available at any big box store), flush with one edge (you decide which side will look best with a flat wall to the ceiling). Toe-nail studs into top cap. Run wallboard up to top of beam, drywall screwing into top cap. Box out other side of beam with drywall, gluing panels and any framing to beam. Much faster and easier than drilling through an I-beam.

Will the glued wall be sufficiently strong to support wall mounted cabinets?

[Stan Krupowies]

Stan,
My basement is the same construction and I'm literally looking over my head at this moment checking out the construction method used to install a dividing wall. The "I" beam steel support posts w/ flange brackets are approximately every 5' and a 2x4 wall has been constructed to locate exactly underneath the "I" beam. The stud wall is attached by nailing heavy "U" shaped nails horizontally into the top 2X plates sandwiching the bottom edge of I-beam. It's actually pretty well done and gives you a very secure connection. I imagine you could also use a 16D nail horizontally placed into the top plate and bent over the bottom edge of beam also. Wall is then paneled on both sides, dividing shop from storage/utilities. My wall actually has a doorway and is very well supported. A plus is the fact you can easily reverse the procedure and remove the wall if need be. Bottom plate is not bolted down.
Mac

That's an interesting way. Wonder where to get those U shaped nails?

[Mac McQuinn]

My house was built in 1977 although I remember these nails well from years gone by. The thickness is about what you see in a 16D nail. Should be available still, I believe they are called "Steeples" and used in farm fencing when attaching heavy fence wire to wood fence posts. Should be available at farm supplies.

Mac

That's an interesting way. Wonder where to get those U shaped nails?

[Ben Hatcher]

The wall under the beam in my basement is built like any other load bearing wall. From the looks of it, they just pounded the studs into place and the top plate/wall is held by friction alone. The side benefit of this is that there's no bounce in the floor above any more.

[phil harold]

Will the glued wall be sufficiently strong to support wall mounted cabinets?

if you use plywood/osb going all the way to the ceiling in lieu of sheet rock I would feel safe.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Hi Stan - I have the same setup (steel beam) and just finished putting up a dividing wall between my shop and a utility area. I had some surface rust on my beam so I hit it with a ROS with 60 grit and then wiped it down with mineral spirits to get it clean. I used construction adhesive to glue a 2x4 to the steel beam, using clamps every foot or two until the glued dried (I gave it overnight). I used a Ramset to secure a PT shoe to the floor directly underneath the top cleat (used a weight on a string to line it up) and then toenailed the studs in place. When cutting the studs to length I left them a shade long and then hammered them into place before toenailing them. I have no qualms about mounting cabinets on that wall.

[michael a nelson]

when we did our basement we used the ramset cobra with the red caps and it worked fine on the beam

[Bruce Wrenn]

Construction adhesive and steel don't always work well together. The steel and wood will expand and contract, but the construction adhesive won't. I like to use silicon adhesive instead. I have done several jobs of replacing wood / sheet rock over windows in stores that was originally fastened with construction adhesive.

[Tim Janssen]

Drilling the flange and bolting the top plate to the steel beam worked fine for me, when I built my basement shop 2 years ago.

Shop Construction 2-23-09-1 - Copy.jpg

Shop Construction putting up studs 2.jpg

Tim

[Stephen Cherry]

It seems to me that you do not want to carry weight on this wall because there is probably no footer below it.

[Lee Schierer]

Run wallboard up to top of beam, drywall screwing into top cap.

Drywall screws are not the proper screw of choice here. Dry wall screws should only be used for drywall attachment to studs or ceiling joists. They are too brittle for any other application where there will be a working load. Other than they are cheap, don't use them except for drywall.