Fixing a metal roof leak

[Pete Kurki]

Had another guy take a look at the roof. He told me its better to leave the nails in place and just caulk them water tight with some special metal caulk (forgot already what he called it). Pulling the nails out would damage the panels. He offered to do the job for a couple of thousand...

Opinions?

At this point I have decided that I simply hate climbing to high places so much that I am going to let someone else to do the fixing.

Pete

[Alan Greene]

Pete, at a couple of thousand, and Guaranteed, I would go for it. It is not worth the individual effort and learning curve you would have IMHO. Also don't know much about the barns, but that sounds like the best bet from reading the whole thread.

[Randy Cohen]

I think sealing the nail holes with caulk is a temporary fix. If guaranteed, for how long?

[Pete Kurki]

I think sealing the nail holes with caulk is a temporary fix. If guaranteed, for how long?

I'm sure you are right Randy. I would not expect the caulking fix the roof for more than 2-4 years maybe. But since it is looking like replacing the entire roof will run over $10k (maybe a lot over), I need to find other ways to get by for a few years now. Also, I am not sure anyone is willing to guarantee a caulking job.

Pete

[Steve Clardy]

Caulk would be a temp fix at best.

Panels expand and contract with the outside temperature.


I'd still go with the screws.



There's a product out there that is a vinyl roof coating, sprayed on.

The entire roof is coated. But its very costly also.

Can't think of the name of it offhand.

I worked in a truck shop that they had the metal roof coated with it.

It didn't work, as they didn't get it sprayed on heavy enough.

7000 sq ft., cost back then in 1991 I think, was 10 grand to have it sprayed. And it still leaked. Roof was originally nailed on.
Owner finally gave up and hired a couple of boys to pull nails and screw the tin down. That stopped the leaks

[larry merlau]

as steve C eluded to, the caulk is definatly a temporary fix,, have put on a fair bit of steel in the past and i wouldnt think of caulking the nails. bite the bullet and have one of your guys screw it and then you will be better off.

[Neal Daughtry]

I found out the hard way with roof coatings, if that coating is not adhered in every spot then the coating will fail and water will get in and can't get out then the roof will rust and fail. Had my roof coated with elastomeric coating and cleaned the roof with tsp and a pressure washer before coating and the coating still bubbled up in places and the galvanized metal rusted and started leaking all over the place. I would replace the nails with screws also. If you ever want to paint use industrial enamel.

[Randy Cohen]

7500 sq ft=75x100....right?
get a big heavy duty tarp.

[Chase Gregory]

If you use a 26ga PBR galvalume panel, plus butyl tape for seams, ridge cap, rake trim, eave trim and screws, then figure $1.00 sq.ft. MINIMUM for the roof material. (Don't forget overhangs on the sheet material.)

So $7500 for material (min.) using 26 ga.

And this is if you can buy it direct from the roll former and can pick it up.

Then add labor.

Don't pay roofers to remove the old panels. Find the cheapest guys you can to remove the panels ahead of the installers. Have them stack it and then advertise it for sale to cover the cost of removal.

If installers don't have to remove the old roof, 7500 sq.ft. of PBR for $10,000 in place would be possible here, but $12,000 would be more realistic. That's assuming 3 installers for 5 days.

Even with 4 installers and 7 days and the material upped 15 percent it could be done for $14,000+/-.

If you roof it, I highly recommend the PBR (purlin bearing rib) profile. PBR is an improved R panel. It is arguably the strongest and most economical of the screw-down (non standing rib) panels. Perfect for low slope roofs and for widely spaced purlins.

Don't run 5v 'tin' over purlins. It is the classic tin roof, but very weak and you can get PBR panels for the same cost.

I wouldn't consider 29ga or the 'economy panels' which are 31 ga... 26 should be considered a minimum.

BTW, what is the roof pitch? Purlin spacing?

I know it's an expensive endeavour, but the more 'moved-in' and finished your shop becomes the more disruptive re-roofing will be later...

You could consider phasing the project and just re-roof the first 60' if it'll cover your primary shop space - or force your shop to fit under whatever you can afford to roof. Work backwards from a budget.

Chaser

I'm sure you are right Randy. I would not expect the caulking fix the roof for more than 2-4 years maybe. But since it is looking like replacing the entire roof will run over $10k (maybe a lot over), I need to find other ways to get by for a few years now. Also, I am not sure anyone is willing to guarantee a caulking job.

Pete