Straight Edge for Jointer set-up

[Porter Bassett]

OK, my jointer now has a motor, and the knives have been sharpened. Now it's time for me to set it up.

But first, I need a good straight edge.

But how good of a straight edge do I need?

Do I need to buy an $80 straight edge from rockler or woodcraft, or is there something less expensive that will fit the bill?

[Brian Kent]

These work well, for less $. I use the 36" and just keep it out of he way to protect it when not in use:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,240,45313

[Wilbur Pan]

I used a four foot level from the Borg. Seemed to do the job well enough, but then again I know that I am going to be going over any machine jointed surfaces with a hand plane.

[rob mason]

I have a Jet JJ6csx (I think thats the model) and need new knives. Are you using the straightedge to install the knives or to make sure the beds are coplaner?
I'm seriously considering spending the money on the jointer pals...

[Peter Quadarella]

I use this one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20044

It's not steel, but I just try not to bang it up.

[Steve Clardy]

I've always used a 4-foot aluminum level

[Howard Acheson]

I'm with Wilber. Go to a store that has a selection of 48 levels. Keep matching them edge to edge until you find a pair that matches perfectly. Turn them over and match again. You will generally finish a pair on the first try. Buy either one.

A 48" level will be more than straight enough to set up you jointer and check flatness and straightness of other tools or work. Just don't bang it around.

[Chris Gombola]

I use the oneway multi gauge as well with jointer setup. It doesn't take the place of a long straightedge but it helps with knife alignment.

[Tom Esh]

I have the 4' steel from Lee Valley. Accurate but a heavy beast. If I had it to do over I'd go with their aluminum. Easier to handle and it won't scratch up your tables or ding the knives as easily.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Buy a copy of John White's book, "Care and Repair of Shop Machines." He shows how to make a "master bar" using MDF, and drywall screws. The book is about $20.

[Lee Hingle]

I have the 4' steel from Lee Valley. Accurate but a heavy beast. If I had it to do over I'd go with their aluminum. Easier to handle and it won't scratch up your tables or ding the knives as easily.

Tom,
Do you mean their 3 foot steel straightedge, or am I missing something? I didn't see a 4 ft steel last time I looked. If so, please point me in the right direction....
Thanks,
Lee

[john bateman]

I have one of those $30 aluminum straightedges. I recently had to buy some 1/8" x 2" aluminum stock at Home depot. It's about $10 for a 3ft length. When I butted it up against my straightedge, I couldn't get a .002" feeler gauge between them.

Just as straight for 1/3 the cost.

[Eric Franklin]

I have this set from Garrett Wade.

http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?...&itemID=107414

[Tom Esh]

Tom,
..I didn't see a 4 ft steel last time I looked. If so, please point me in the right direction....
Lee

I'm sure it's 4 - the same size as the yardstick it's hanging next to ...oh, wait.

[Per Swenson]

You all making guns and motors?
No? cutting wood. I see.
Listen to Mr Clardy.
Use a 4' level and if you don't have that rip a piece of mdf on the table saw
to 3 inches.
When you go to set your knives look here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...hlight=magnets

Per