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Thread: Wood vs Metal Vise Threads

  1. Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Cannon View Post
    What are the advantages of a wood vise screw over a metal vise screw, if any -- aside from degree of neander-ness?

    My question was prompted by Woodworking Magazine's 23 July blog article on Jameel Abraham's "Deluxe Roubo" workbench, which uses wood vise screws on its two leg vises.

    Article: http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/...uxe+Roubo.aspx
    Here are my thoughts after using the bench for a few weeks.

    The hubs protrude more than a steel vise screw head, but it's only a bit of a nuisance on the slider, I don't even notice it on the fixed vise.

    The wood screws move 1/2" for each revolution. My Record vise, only 1/4". This is important because the wood screw doesn't have a quick release.

    Strength is not an issue. If you have a properly built vise with a screw with the specs of the Big Wood Vise screw, you're not going to run into breakage problems unless you are intentionally trying the break the screw, even then it would not be easy. My vise chop is lined with leather, and with moderate pressure, nothing moves. I don't come close to tapping out the potential clamping pressure

    The action is every bit as smooth as a steel screw, and there is no in-out slop in the threads. They are very precise.

    IMO, it boils down to price. I spent the extra on wood, about $50 more per screw/nut vs. steel. I also like the looks of the wood vise screw. I'm pretty utilitarian when it comes to shop furniture, but a nice touch here and there makes the work environment more pleasant.

  2. #17
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    I'm looking at a section in one of Roy Underhill's books and also acquired a copy of Fine Woodworking #6 (and thanks to the SMC'er that sent me some excerpts so I could be sure of what I was looking for). My plan is to use the approach they illustrate for making a "tap" and threadbox. I also looked at the Beall Threader, most specifically at the router bit he uses, a 60 degree v cutter. I found flat 60 degree carbide cutters at McMaster Carr for a few dollars each and ordered several different lengths. I also purchased a replacement cutter for the Threadbox that Woodcraft sells. I hope to combine all of this stuff into a "tap" and threadbox that does not require any metal-working on my part.

    When I actually start working on the project, I'll try to take good pictures and notes and post here in case anyone else can use the information.

    I think you could probably put together a good cutting system based on the Beall design. The sticking point is you need a threaded "nut" to build the device to cut the threaded "screws" and of course you need a threaded "screw" to build a tap to cut the threaded "nut". I wonder if you could make one of those "nuts" that consist of an over sized holes with pointed dowels sticking through them to engage the threads work?

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