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Thread: Can mix own BLO/Tung/Poly blend

  1. #1

    Can mix own BLO/Tung/Poly blend

    There is a Sam Maloof brand for like $15 a pint that states this mix. A General Finishes has a Oil/poly wipe on at $11 a pint.

    Can one put equal ratios of BLO, Tung and Poly to get the same as Sam Maloof or are there some secret ingrediants that make this not viable for the DIYer.
    thanks

  2. #2
    Tom,

    I did some chairs a while ago and was on the hunt for what you describe. I found this somewhere online.

    The Sam Maloof finish consists of two finishes: A varnish/oil mixture followed by an oil/varnish/beeswax mixture. The first mixture is applied until you are satisfied with the build-up. Then you apply the second finish, which does require some elbow grease! You can purchase the finish pre-mixed from Rockler, or you can mix your own. I provide two Mixture 1 recipes. Mixture 1 Version 1 is the traditional Sam Maloof finish. It takes a while to dry--leave at least 24 hours between coats. Mixture 1 Version 2 is an oft-used finish that provides a little better penetration, is easier to apply, and dries faster.
    Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 1)
    Mix equal parts of the following:
    • Boiled Linseed Oil
    • Raw Tung oil (not Waterlox, Dalys, or other tung oils containing resin additives)
    • Semi-Gloss urethene varnish
    Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 2 - Easier to Apply, Better Penetration, Dries Faster)
    Mix equal parts of the following:
    • Thinner. Use paint thinner, mineral spirits, or naptha. Feel free to use a bit less thinner and more varnish or oil. The thinner is present to help the finish penetrate the pores of the wood, rather than lay on the surface.
    • Varnish. Virtually any quality varnish will do. I prefer a standard oil varnish rather than a fast drying varnish.
    • Oil. Use either boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil. Again, do not use Waterlox, Daly's, or other tung oils that have added resins.
    Mixture 2 Recipe
    Mix 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture in a double-boiler on an electric hotplate just until the wax melts. Due to the volatile nature of the ingredients, brew your mixture outdoors. When cooled, the mixture should have the consistency of heavy cream.
    General Procedure
    Apply three to four coats of Mixture 1. Let oil sit on surface for 5-10 minutes. Optionally, sand mixture into wood using 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Remove excess oil with a clean cloth/paper towel. Allow at least 24 hours drying time between each coat. Apply two to three coats of Mixture 2. Rub Mixture 2 into the surface very vigorously--it is suggested that when your fingers start to get hot from the rubbing, you're applying it correctly.

    I hope you find this helpful.

    Good luck,
    -joe
    Illegitimi non carborundum

    "If you walk, just walk, if you sit, just sit, but whatever you do, don't wobble."
    -Zen Master Unmon

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  3. #3
    great input...thank you.

    I experimented with some BLO on mahogany today over some stain that had dried. The BLO seemed kind of thick to me and when wiped off and dried the wood was dull again. Does it help to thin with a little mineral oil to get the BLO to penetrate deeper into the wood? and give it some of that 3d ish effect. Then i thought I spray a lacquer semi gloss over it.

  4. #4
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    You don't "thin" BLO with mineral oil, Tom. Either use heat or mineral spirits. (paint thinner) And if you stain contains any form of varnish as a binder (and many pigment stains do), it's going to inhibit the penetration of any oil into the wood. If you want color and oil together, use a water soluble dye for the color and then apply the oil for it's benefits.
    --

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