The "Quality" v-belt thread

[Mike Chalmers]

Interesting thread, but .....the OP has not posted to this thread since 2008.

Lots of others have though, making the thread relevant and efficient.

[lowell holmes]

I've done away with link belts on my machines. I've gone to cogged v-belts with good success. I have them on my table saw, band saw, and jointer.

They are at least three years old. I have no vibration problems.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I've gone to Gates AX belts for machines that need new belts. They have been excellent and consistent in two or three belt applications. I've ordered from Royal Supply.

Doug

[John Coloccia]

I like the link belts. I'm not sure why the OP doesn't feel they're a permanent solution. They're very convenient, seem to last a very long time, don't kink, run very smoothly and cleanly, and I only need to keep one kind of belt in the shop to service all of my machines. It's really difficult to see a disadvantage.

[glenn bradley]

Interesting thread, but .....the OP has not posted to this thread since 2008.

Ha-ha . . . oops. I have seen others respond to threads that have been accidentally or purposefully brought beck to life and wondered why they don't notice the dates. I guess now I know ;-) I even responded to the original posting back in 2008. I guess I should wait for the coffee to kick in before responding ;-) I guess I could try to add some value by telling everyone that I have yet to replace a link belt and I have had some of them in service for a decade or so.

[Larry Edgerton]

I didn't notice it either Glen, but then information is information....

If you have Euro machines the company I mentioned before has these sizes, and in matched sets as well as metric pulleys. I always buy two sets just in case but I have not worn any out yet. No vibrations.

http://www.optibelt-usa.com/

[Allan Speers]

I like the link belts. I'm not sure why the OP doesn't feel they're a permanent solution. They're very convenient, seem to last a very long time, don't kink, run very smoothly and cleanly, and I only need to keep one kind of belt in the shop to service all of my machines. It's really difficult to see a disadvantage.

The general consensus on link belts is:

1: They are not rated for more than about 1/2 hp per belt.

2: When used at higher HP, they tend to stretch, flutter, and "bloom out," losing grip.

3: When used in pairs, they can stretch at uneven rates, causing a mis-match.

4: They are often used to compensate for a problem that really should be corrected at the source.

5: Pink? Are you kidding me?


Under certain conditions, link belts are great, but one should not consider them to be the holy grail.

[Lee Schierer]

The general consensus on link belts is:

1: They are not rated for more than about 1/2 hp per belt. Hmmm, mine works just fine on 1-1/2 hp.

2: When used at higher HP, they tend to stretch, flutter, and "bloom out," losing grip. No flutter on mine

3: When used in pairs, they can stretch at uneven rates, causing a mis-match.

4: They are often used to compensate for a problem that really should be corrected at the source. If the source is a belt with set, then my link belt did an excellent job of addressing the source of the problem.

5: Pink? Are you kidding me? Mine is red


Under certain conditions, link belts are great, but one should not consider them to be the holy grail.

I'm not sure how you arrived at those conclusions. But when I fixed the vibration in my say 20+ years ago, the VX and notched V belts they have now were not available.

The only thing I would caution about a link belt is make sure you watch the direction arrows and get if on the pullies so it runs in the right direction. The can howl like a hound dog if you run them backwards.

[John Coloccia]

The general consensus on link belts is:

1: They are not rated for more than about 1/2 hp per belt.

2: When used at higher HP, they tend to stretch, flutter, and "bloom out," losing grip.

3: When used in pairs, they can stretch at uneven rates, causing a mis-match.

4: They are often used to compensate for a problem that really should be corrected at the source.

5: Pink? Are you kidding me?


Under certain conditions, link belts are great, but one should not consider them to be the holy grail.

As far as I know, they are rated to the exact same horsepower as the belt you're replacing. They don't do #2 or #3 at all. I don't know what you mean by #4. When the problem is the belt needs to be replaced, at what other source should you correct the problem other than replacing the belt? I wonder if you have link belts confused with some other product?

[lowell holmes]

I had the linked belts on all of my power tools, but issues developed. IIRC, the belts slipped, made noise, and generally a pain in the tush.

Someone in this forum stated that cogged belts were preferable, would not slip, and would last. This was maybe 4 or 5 years ago.

The attached picture is the type of belt I'm talking about. They are available on Amazon. They also are available at auto parts stores.

I've had no issues with these belts. They are quiet, and don't develop a hard spot that bumps when running like the original v belts that came on the equipment.

coggedbelt.jpg

[Jason White]

Get a link belt. I put one on my 14" bandsaw. Huge improvement.

[Jerry Bruette]

The general consensus on link belts is:

1: They are not rated for more than about 1/2 hp per belt.

2: When used at higher HP, they tend to stretch, flutter, and "bloom out," losing grip.

3: When used in pairs, they can stretch at uneven rates, causing a mis-match.

4: They are often used to compensate for a problem that really should be corrected at the source.

5: Pink? Are you kidding me?


Under certain conditions, link belts are great, but one should not consider them to be the holy grail.

You should take a trip over to the Fennerdrives.com website, they might change your mind on the misconceptions you have about link belts.

[Allan Speers]

As far as I know, they are rated to the exact same horsepower as the belt you're replacing. They don't do #2 or #3 at all. I don't know what you mean by #4. When the problem is the belt needs to be replaced, at what other source should you correct the problem other than replacing the belt? I wonder if you have link belts confused with some other product?

I'm stating what the general consensus is. I did a lot of research on belts, and these points are brought up constantly, by serious guys with lots of experience. I have no dog in this fight.

OK, I do have a dog in this fight, but it's a very SMALL dog and doesn't bark much.

[Jerry Bruette]

Don't mean to be too picky here but that's actually a notched belt not cogged. A cogged belt would be a timing belt.

Only purpose for the notches is a better wrap, more contact, on a small diameter sheave.

They are designated by the letter X after the belt size. AX, BX, CX etc.

coggedbelt.jpg[/QUOTE]

[Jim German]

The general consensus on link belts is:

1: They are not rated for more than about 1/2 hp per belt.

2: When used at higher HP, they tend to stretch, flutter, and "bloom out," losing grip.

3: When used in pairs, they can stretch at uneven rates, causing a mis-match.

4: They are often used to compensate for a problem that really should be corrected at the source.

5: Pink? Are you kidding me?


Under certain conditions, link belts are great, but one should not consider them to be the holy grail.

I agree with most of these. I tried one on my 2HP bandsaw and it slips under load. I still haven't been able to find a good replacement.

Also keep in mind that when most people talk about link-belts they mean ones like this http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/145...Link-Belt.aspx .
There are a bunch of other types of link belts that are available at a significantly higher cost that may work better. McMaster has 3 differnt types http://www.mcmaster.com/#v-belts/=xry0je