Resaw Bandsaw Purchase Recommendation

[Stan Smith]

Don,

A couple of questions for the MM16 owners out there.

1. Have you ever wished you had increased capacity at the throat? If so, what were you working on?

2. What percentage of your bandsaw work is resawing?

3. Have you ever installed a 1/4" or smaller blade on your saw? If so, how did it work with the stock guides? I know I can purchase different guides for the MM16 that would easily handle the smaller blades, but that costs additional $'s.
.

I have a MM16" works great for my resawing which is all hardwood. Here's the answers.
1. No but I also have a little Delta benchtop bandsaw and an RBI scrollsaw.
2. All
3. No

Get the Lennox carbide tipped blade.

[Wilbur Pan]

Most likely I will keep the Jet with a 3/8" blade in it for all other BS work other than resaw (I also have 1/8, 1/2, and 3/4 Timberwolf blades)....

I've been reading a lot, both online and here...and here's where I'm at.

I want it to be able to resaw 12" (since that's my J/P capacity) with a throat capacity to match that (which all will do), I don't see a need for a huge throat, so the 16"-18" range works well for my needs. Price cap at $2500 is a must (not including shipping).

First of all, thanks to you for your service to our country.

Now, to bandsaws. First of all, exactly what kind of 1/2" blade do you have for your Jet? Having the right blade makes all the difference. Hopefully, it was a 3TPI blade. If not, try one out and see how it works out. I don't think that the Jet 14", or any other currently made 14" bandsaw has got the tensioning ability for a 3/4" blade.

Secondly, if you have any sort of mechanical ability, you might want to consider looking for a 1940's-50's era bandsaw. Bob mentioned the huge bandsaws made by Oliver and Tannewitz. There are many other makers out there. I have a 16" Walker-Turner that can resaw just under 12", and I've managed to do this with a 1/2 HP motor -- although I wouldn't do this on a regular basis. I just mention this to show that more than HP goes into good resaw performance. Remember, back in the day a typical bandsaw came with a 1/2 HP motor, and a 1 HP motor would be a real luxury, but they still were resawing oak beams like you want to.

I think that many of the differences between the old machines and what's available today are things that can't be seen in a spec sheet. For example, my bandsaw specs out at 12" resaw, 1/2 HP, and 575 lbs. But what isn't shown is that the cast iron wheel is more massive proportionately compared to the wheels on current day bandsaws, which adds to the cutting performance. The specs also don't show that the wheel covers themselves are all cast iron, putting the weight right where you want it, near the cutting action.

Find an old bandsaw, replace the bearings and tires, tune up the guides, and you'll have a really nice machine. My total cost for my bandsaw including the bearings and tires was just about $400. And if you live in the Northeast, these sorts of bandsaws come up for sale pretty often.

If I was looking for a new machine, though, I'd go with the MiniMax MM16.

[Bruce Page]

Doc, I’m still very happy with my MM16. It has done everything I have asked of it with ease. I can’t imagine wanting more BS. I have used a lot of BIG industrial bandsaws over the years, DoAll, Kalamazoo, Centari’s, etc, and the MM is on par in their build quality.

Stay safe over there!!!!!!!!!!

[Don Abele]

...I think spending the extra for a Lenox Tri-Master blade is money well spent...

Doug, I have used Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. I was going to get their 1" carbide resaw blade...any idea how that and the Lenox Tri-Master compare? Not sure of the price of the Timberwolf, but I'm sure it's on par with the Lenox ($250) which is money well spent on a good blade.

...That's important when you are going to tension up a wide and thick carbide resaw blade for sure...

Jim, how do you tension your blades correctly on the MM16? For my Jet, I have used Timberwolf's flutter method with excellent results.

I'm sorry you're leaving the Boston area before I could get into town for the tour, but them's the breaks...

That's alright...a lot of things I never had time to do when I was here. Besides, right now we are in the middle of a two-year overhaul and don't look our best. Be sure and try and get up here after the summer of 2010 when it's done. Let me know and I'll put a call in to my relief and see if he'll hook you up!

...exactly what kind of 1/2" blade do you have for your Jet?...I don't think that the Jet 14", or any other currently made 14" bandsaw has got the tensioning ability for a 3/4" blade...

Wilbur, as I said above, I've used the Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. For my Jet, I have a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 blade. I don't remember the tooth set on them, but they were all the ones recommended by the Suffolk techs. I've had excellent results with them, but just not with this 10-12" wide oak. Lot's of drift and VERY slow going. For tensioning I use the flutter method and have replaced the standard spring.

...Secondly, if you have any sort of mechanical ability, you might want to consider looking for a 1940's-50's era bandsaw...

Wilbur, the problem is more of one of time. I'd love to get an old machine and restore it. But I'm going to a highly deployed security squadron and will be gone for six months of the year, every year for the next three years. What little time I have at home (and in the shop), I want to spend on projects, not restoring a saw (though that could be just as enjoyable).

Thanks again for all the input guys...keep 'em coming, I appreciate it.

Be well,

Doc

[Doug Shepard]

Doug, I have used Suffolk Timberwolf blades exclusively. I was going to get their 1" carbide resaw blade...any idea how that and the Lenox Tri-Master compare? Not sure of the price of the Timberwolf, but I'm sure it's on par with the Lenox ($250) which is money well spent on a good blade.

Wish I could help. The only carbide I've used is the TM. Wasn't even aware someone else was making one. Laguna apparently has one they call a carbide but posts I've read say it's something else (Stellite? IIRC). I've heard nothing but good things about Suffolk, so if they're making a carbide I'd assume it's a good quality blade. I went from HH Woodslicers on the Jet to TMs on the MM16 and have been grinning ever since.

[guy knight]

i have used the resawking on my rikon 18 went with the 1 1/4 was to much blade for the saw sold the saw gave the blade to a friend who had it shortened and used it has great results on my mm20 i use trimaster carbide they work great

[John Hedges]

Wish I could help. The only carbide I've used is the TM. Wasn't even aware someone else was making one. Laguna apparently has one they call a carbide but posts I've read say it's something else (Stellite? IIRC). I've heard nothing but good things about Suffolk, so if they're making a carbide I'd assume it's a good quality blade. I went from HH Woodslicers on the Jet to TMs on the MM16 and have been grinning ever since.

I would be looking at the Lenox Woodmaster CT. Newer blade meant for cutting wood (as opposed to the Trimaster which was originally meant as a metal cutting blade). The CT is a lot cheaper and has a thinner kerf and lower TPI.

To Paul Gatti. I highly recommend the B20. Great saw and the larger wheels are supposed to work better with carbide blades.

[Mark Singer]

I have the 20" Aggazani and have had it for many years after buying many not so great models including a Laguna . The 20" adds a little cost, but when you compare features and power its the way to go.