Removing Floor Staples

[Burt Alcantara]

The layers are as follows:
Vinyl
particle board
linoleum 1 stapled into the floor
linoleum 2 directly under linoleum 1, possibly glued together
thin substrate -- unknown composition glued to hardwood flooring
green glue layer.

We were able to easily remove the staples with channel lock pliers but a few broke off all the way down to the hardwood flooring level.

We used the sharp end of crowbars to remove the layers down to the thin substrate. Most of the substrate comes off using the same technique with the crowbars but will also require some chiseling.

The whole point of this is to get to the hardwood floor so we can have it professionally sanded and finished. At that point, the kitchen floor will be integrated with the rest of the house.

I'll try to get some pictures up so you can see what I'm talking about.

Burt

[Alan Schaffter]

Sounds like a real mess. Previous owners or tradesman should have removed previous layers before recovering the floor.

Since there is hardwood under it all, see my comment about setting any visible staples or nails that can not be removed. After setting, you will want to fill the holes. The filler will depend on your selection of stain or no stain, and to some degree on the finish- water-based poly is pretty clear, while oil-base poly is a bit amber.

Good luck!! Don't forget "before" and "after" pics!

[Wayne Cannon]

I've found the Extractor Nail Puller Plier to work significantly better than Channel Locks, Vise Grips, end cutters, or any other pry bar or plier. I just finished pulling nearly a hundred 2" flooring staples and cleats and I'm more sold than ever. I was even able to pull face-nailed serrated, cement-coated, flooring cleats ("L-head") completely through 3/4" oak from the back with ease. The wide, flat, cam surface is also quite good at not marring the surface significantly, even without a shim or putty knife under it to distribute the pressure.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43456,43400


The only negative I have found is that, having a plier-like jaw, it needs about 1/8" to grip a nail that will need a significant pull. End-cutters or diagonal cutters can get a better grip on an extremely short stub -- but do not have nearly the pulling leverage as these "Extractors".

[Burt Alcantara]

Wayne,
That looks like the ticket! When we begin the rest of the floor I'll pick up 2 of these.

Thanks for that one!!!
Burt