Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 22

Thread: Cabinet size question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497

    Cabinet size question

    OK, I am now going to actually build the shop cabinets that I talked about a while back. I am going to build them just like kitchen cabinets -- as practice for the cabinets that I am going to build for my office this winter. Here is my quick question:

    What size to you recommend for the cabinets? The height will be dictated by the clearance (about 40 inches). Most of the standard kitchen cabinets that I have seen are 12 inches deep -- which seems to shallow. Also, I don't know what would be the optimal width. I have about 8 to 10 feet of wall to play with.

    So:
    1) what depth?
    2) what width?

    (I know that "it depends", but just looking for some quick suggestions.)

    Ray

  2. #2
    Normal kitchen upper cabs for me.

    I rip my ply sides to 11 1/4"
    3/4 face
    1/4 back

    Cabinet depth is 12 1/4"

    This gives you 12" inside the cabinets

    It also lets you get 4 rips from a sheet of plywood, with a strip left.


    Nothing wrong with building them deeper.

    If you want them 15" deep, that cuts your rips on plywood down to 3, so you need to figure in more material.


  3. #3
    Lay it out on a piece of paper and figure where you will get your best yield on a sheet of plywood. 12-18 for upper, 24 for the base is what I am looking at for some cabinets I am going to build.
    Scott

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    888
    I suggest a look a sites like this and others like it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fayetteville Pennsylvania
    Posts
    248
    my standard uppers are 14" deep including face frame. They start at 54" off the level floor line and run to the ceiling. most standard base units are 24" deep including face frame and stand about 35.25" tall including the 3" toe kick.

    I might suggest that you go to www.cabinetplanner.com and test drive their software with the cabinets you are proposing. It will give you a cut list and shop plans to work with for free. I don't remember how many times you get to use it before you need to but, I think it was 3 days when I was shopping. Now, I wouldn't build anything without it.


    Ed

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497

    Wall Cabinets

    I should have specifically said that I am building wall cabinets and not base cabs. I am trying to decide only on the dimensions. I have the other parameters (joinery, etc) figured out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Depth should be a function on how the cabinets will be used tempered with efficient material usage. (saw kerfs are involved in that) What you want to store and how you want to store within the cabinets is critical to the design dimensions.

    Many typical kitchen uppers out there are in the 12-13" deep range, but that's not necessarily the ideal for that application when you take into consideration the side of dinner platters these days, etc. (I made the mistake of making my kitchen cabinets in 2003 only 12" deep inside the doors...) Lately, I've been making uppers more in the 15" total depth range. I did that for our wet bar and for my office and that dimension worked well. I would probably use that size as a starting point for cabinets in my shop "in general", but again, exactly what the purpose would be could modify that significantly.

    Width is also dictated by use and preferred door configurations if doors are in play. Sometimes a single door is better for a given use and sometimes a double door is better. Single doors shouldn't be wider than a certain dimension for both hanging weight on the hinges and for practical reasons...they stick out farther and can unexpectedly whack you in the head/eye easier, depending on cabinet height.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 09-11-2008 at 4:00 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497

    Thanks

    Thanks everyone for your input.

    I think that I will make mine 15" in total depth. I am using the Danny Proulx method for Frameless Cabinets and I am planning to use double doors on each. I think that I will make the cabinets 24 inches wide -- so that will give me 12 inch doors.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497

    New thought

    OK, changed my mind. I am going with:
    15 inches deep (total: 3/4" frame + 14.25 side)
    30 inches wide
    42 inches high

    Prefinished plywood (3/4)
    Face Frame -- oak
    Frame and panel doors
    Doors attached with Eurohinges
    Screwed carcass (using Ultimates or Spax)
    Doweled face frame
    Face frame attached with pocket screws
    1/2" Plywood back in a dado
    Adjustable shelves (using a pin drilling jig that I made)


    This is almost exactly what I want in my office, so it should be great practice.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Inset doors or overlay? If the former, you can "trick" the project into thinking you have frame less and not have to deal with the attachment fun using face-frame Euro hinges. How? Space the carcass boxes such that the inside edge of the cabinet box is flush with the inside edge of your face frames.

    And consider building your face frames first. This technique is detailed in the latest issue of Woodworking Magazine...and makes a whole lot of sense to me since reading through it twice. You key and measure everything else off the face frames for a perfect match.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Cave In Rock, Illinois
    Posts
    119

    Talking

    I agree with Jim on building the faceframes first. It's the best way to go. All your carcass diemensions and door sizes will reference from your faceframe. I usually build the faceframes and the doors first. Takes up less space in the shop. I would rather walk around frames and stacks of doors than cabinets.

    I've had enough people PM me about how I build cabinets I'm thinking about taking the pics on the current job I just started to document everything for a cabinet making thread. If anybody thinks it would be of interest, I'd be glad to do it. Besides it would be a great way to show off the slider in hot cabinet making action,LOL.

  12. #12

    ok

    Ok I'll chime in . Almost all standard cabinet dimensions (also known as stock sizes) are made with material use efficiency in mind.Sheet goods are normally 4 by 8 hence alot of stuff being 1 'finish 2' finish etc, I hate waste, which leads me to not being able to throw these little rips of plywood away which leads to clutter. I would make the wall cabinets 15 3/4" ( 3 rips) worth of plywood and 3/4" worth of face frame so they would e 16 1/2". Normally stock cainet uppers are 12" but full uppers are 42" so are most butlers pantrys. The reason they are 42" is because you can get two pieces out of a sheet and still have enough left over for carcass pieces for uppers.
    Anyway thats my story and I'm sticking to it
    Last edited by William OConnell; 09-12-2008 at 2:54 AM.
    William
    http://woodworkers.us
    I never lost money on a job I didn't get

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris McDowell View Post
    I've had enough people PM me about how I build cabinets I'm thinking about taking the pics on the current job I just started to document everything for a cabinet making thread. If anybody thinks it would be of interest, I'd be glad to do it. Besides it would be a great way to show off the slider in hot cabinet making action,LOL.
    Yes, please do that, Chris.

    Jim
    SMC Moderator
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497
    Ditto what Jim said -- please do, Chris.

    I am one of the people who PMed Chris and I really like his approach. I have studied Danny Proulx and Jim Tolpin's books and they gave me some ideas, as well. But Chris really helped me decide exactly how I was going to do my cabinets. I am anxious to see the thread with the pictures!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    497

    New info!

    OK, I went to buy materials for my shop cabinets. I planned to buy the prefinished plywood and Oh My Gosh! It is more expensive than GOLD! OK, that is exaggerating, but I was not going to pay $100 per sheet for shop cabinet material. I decided to use the borg Birch that I have in my garage.

    The only problem with that plan was that I stopped at the big box stores and they did not carry 1/2" plywood that I want to use for the backs! ARG! I did not have time to go back to the cabinet supply place that I was at earlier, so I am going to use the 1/2 OSB and 1 piece of leftover 1/2 Birch that I have. Every project throws me a curve!

    I changed the face frame to maple. I will take Jim's suggestion and make the face frames first and make them even with the inside side of the carcass.

Similar Threads

  1. Font Size question in Corel
    By Scott Shepherd in forum Laser Engraving General Topics
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-05-2007, 3:58 PM
  2. Another Kitchen Cabinet Question
    By Larry Fox in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-22-2006, 12:22 PM
  3. large cabinet door question
    By Todd Reinbold in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-22-2006, 10:10 PM
  4. Glass cabinet door question
    By Kurt Loup in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-18-2005, 11:30 AM
  5. Flush mount cabinet door fit question...
    By David Rose in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 07-29-2003, 12:52 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •