Advice on purchasing a Straight Edge?

[John Sanford]

I'm going to be getting an honest to goodness steel straight edge here soon (need it for recalibrating my jointer after its moving tumble), and would like some input on the size and make.

First off though, a Starrett (or the like) isn't in the cards. I know they are one of the gold standards for straight edges, but at well over $100 for a 24", there isn't room in the budget for it.

The leading contenders right now are the Veritas 36", and the Veritas 24". I like their thickness, but am wondering whether the extra 12" is overkill, given that I have a standard length 6" jointer, (older, American made PM54).

Other contenders are solicited, as well as input on the length question.

Grace and peace.

[Jason Beam]

The reason I like the Lee Valley ones are because they guarantee accuracy over the entire length rather than per foot - and that accuracy is almost always better than anyone else in the same price range.

The reason I like my 3' one is that it's thicker than the 2' one and it sits upright just fine on it's edge while setting up my jointer. I dunno if the 1/4" thick one would be so stable.

[Gary McKown]

The extra length (actually 38") sure comes in handy when adjusting coplanarity of outfeed and infeed, even on a small jointer. Also great for adjusting TS wings, checking the straightness of other things, etc. Then too, the extra heft makes it a bit less prone to damage.

[Frank Drew]

Accuracy being equal, longer is usually better in a straight edge used for checking machinery.

FWIW, Bridge City Toolworks puts a finish on their steel rules and straight edges that seems to be impervious to rust in a situation where every other ferrous metal object rusts to some degree.

[Dave Falkenstein]

There is a large selection available from Enco:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000001475

[Wilbur Pan]

This question came up not too long ago. I used a 4 foot level as my straightedge to adjust the beds on my jointer.

[Chris Padilla]

Get the 38" aluminum Veritas. It is a nice length at a cheaper cost than the steel. You'll appreciate the lighter weight (well, actually you won't unless you have both!). I have the 50" one and a Starrett 36" steel one. Guess which one I reach for most often?

[Mike Spanbauer]

I have to say that my Stabila 48" level is as accurate as my 36" steel machined straight edge... within .001 along the entire length. I store it in a wooden case, but I'd suggest it for a great straight edge... not to mention, the standard in levels

mike

[glenn bradley]

I have the Veritas 36" steel one which is good. Longer would be better for me but shorter would not be my choice for anyone to use on a jointer which is your primary focus. 24" is sorta OK for a tablesaw but cannot reach front to rear on even a contractor saw so I would go longer.

[Jason Beam]

Just so we're clear:

John was asking about the Veritas Steel straight edges which are offered in 12, 24 and 36" lengths. The aluminum ones are offered in 24, 38 and 50" lengths. They don't have a 38" steel one, nor a 36" aluminum one. I was getting confused reading things a bit so I figured it might help to clarify

[glenn bradley]

Just so we're clear:

John was asking about the Veritas Steel straight edges which are offered in 12, 24 and 36" lengths. The aluminum ones are offered in 24, 38 and 50" lengths. They don't have a 38" steel one, nor a 36" aluminum one. I was getting confused reading things a bit so I figured it might help to clarify

Thanks Jason! I corrected my post ;-)

[Barry Vabeach]

John, I know there is an unwritten rule here that we normally suggest that the poster spend just a little more to get something better that will last ( which is how I went from buying a 14 inch bandsaw for $400 to spending closer to $900 for a 17 inch) and I have kept up that spirit in some of my posts. I did want to point out that if you only need it to set your jointer tables coplanar - you can do the same thing with a peice of plywood tha is 12 inches wide by 48 inches long and 9 4-40 flat heads screws - which if you have the plywood should cost only $2.00 ( and a feeler gauge - but you need that with a straight edge anyway) You rip the plywood into 3 strips of 4 inches wide, and then mark them for suitable locations for 3 holes ( 1 near each end and 1 near the middle so that 2 screws will be nearly at the ends of one of you table and the other reaches the far end of the other table ) Then you insert the screws and using A to B to C to A comparisons adjust them to the same plane - by my calulations, 1/16 of a turn is .0015 inches - so it should be pretty easy to get all three screws within that tolerance. Not as cool as a straight edge - but probably as accurate or more accurate than an aluminum one.

[Peter Quadarella]

Just wanted to note, that the aluminum straight edges are no less accurate than the steel ones, they are just made of a lighter and cheaper material (which, if you are not going to bang it up much, is just fine).

[John Sanford]

Thanks for the input folks. I was leaning toward the Veritas 36" steel, but it looks like the Veritas 38" Aluminum will do the trick for less cost. The rust issue is a non-starter for me, simply because of a) where I live, and b) the fact that I'm working with wood, not the tolerances of a machinist. As a result, losing .001" of accuracy over the length of the straightedge as a result of corrosion wouldn't bother me, even if there was a meaningful chance of corrosion.

I'm not terribly interested in the whole "ripping stuff" and all that in this case. I want a good reference that I can use for the rest of my days, not something that's likely to get "repurposed" as a jig fence or any of the myriad other fates that generally befall lengths of plywood in our shops.

The advice on the length is most valuable, and has pulled me away from the seductive pull of the 24".