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Thread: oil vs poly for walnut?

  1. #1

    oil vs poly for walnut?

    i suppose this really comes down to a matter of opinion. attached is a photo of a slab of claro walnut that i'll be using as a coffee table top. i tested 3 finishes on the bottom of the slab - from left to right is minwax poly, BLO, and watco danish oil. the main concern is how dark the wood looks when oiled; will it lighten as it dries? i was a bit surprised how dark (black!) the darker brown grain came out. the poly left it much lighter in appearance. artisans and architects i've spoken to strongly advise against the poly, for reasons of being true or more natural etc. i've heard pros and cons for both. someone said magazines/books might become colored by an oil surface before it dries (which can take a long time). it seems there might be some kind of amberish/yellowish color to the watco "natural" danish oil. is this true? is there an oil that has NO coloring to it to maintain more of the natural wood color without darkening it?
    i'm not so concerned with water marks on the oil, i don't have kids and will be good about wiping up any spills promptly. so...i'm leaning toward the oil. just wanted some advice at the 11th hour. !!!
    thanks!
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    3,147
    First, let's understand the finishes themselves. Poly is just an oil based varnish where some urethane is added to enhance scratch resistance. BLO is a drying oil that provides no protection from water or watervapor and adds no abrasion resistance. Consider it more of a coloring treatment, not a finish. Watco Danish Oil is an oil/varnish mixture made by combining varnish with BLO and mineral spirits.

    So, you choice really is whether to use the poly varnish or the oil/varnish. As you say that abusive treatment is not a concern, you can consider whether you want an on-the-surface finish or a much more natural in-the-wood finish provided by the oil/varnish. Walnut is a finish that looks best with a natural finish that highlights the grain figure but does not end up being a "glassy", "plastic" look.

    I am not a fan of poly varnish. It tends to be somewhat cloudy and does not seem attractive on walnut. If you want an on the surface finish I would recommend a non-poly varnish. But my recommendation is to use a home made oil/varnish mixture. Mix equal parts of varnish, BLO and mineral spirits. Apply, let set for 15-30 minutes and then wipe dry. Next day, do it again but apply with a gray scotchbrite pad, let is set and then wipe dry. Then let it dry for 3-4 days and it's ready for use.
    Howie.........

  3. #3

    I chose oil

    Just to follow up, I used Watco Danish Oil. It looked great - the problem in knowing what it would look like came from not having a sample piece that was sanded / as smooth as the actual finish piece. so most samples i did were much darker and duller looking than the actual table top once i oiled it. I did 3 coats over the course of 3 days. This is a first time for me, so I'm not sure if I'll do more coats or any wax. I most likely won't put a varnish/poly over the oil. I will post a photo later to show the result.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
    Posts
    3,147
    In the future, consider making your own oil/varnish mixture. Watco is just a mixture of linseed oil, a very small amount of varnish and a lot of thinner. You end up paying mostly for mineral spirits.

    To make your own, just mix equal parts of varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Using this homemade mixture you will get a more durable finish and it will cost you less. Plus, you just make up what you need.
    Howie.........

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