DIY Clear Lid

[Steve Schlumpf]

Took a couple of photos to show how simple it is to turn one of these.

I used 3/8” thick clear acrylic and cut it slightly oversized for the form it is to cover. Drilled a ¼” hole in the center of the acrylic and used a ¼”-20 bolt with locking nut to secure it to the Jacobs chuck. The chuck just clamps down on the lock nut and you screw the disk to the chuck until it is firm.

Rough Acrylic attached to Chuck.JPG Outside Edge Turned Round.JPG
First step: round off the outside of the disk and turn to correct size. I used a bowl gouge as it is my go-to tool of choice but I am sure you can use any number of tools to get the job done. Just make sure to take light cuts and that your tool is sharp! You don’t have to worry about grain with acrylic but it will tear out if you use dull tools or get to aggressive.

Outside Tapered - Inside Lip.JPG
Second step: create a small step or lip on the inside edge of the disk – purpose is to help center the disk when on the form and also keep it from sliding off.

Third step: is to taper the outside edge of the disk. That’s hard to do with only 3/8” of material to work with but the idea is to taper the edge so that it blends into the existing curve of your hollow form or bowl.

Fourth step: sand the disk using all the grits necessary to remove any and all tool marks. This step is probably the most important step because if you don’t get all the scratches out they will become extremely noticeable once you buff the disk.

Fifth step: buff the disk using the red and white grits to remove all scratches. It is at this step that the edge of the acrylic becomes clear. I do not use the wax step as I glue in the finial and want a good clean area for the CA to grab onto.

New Look V1.JPG New Look V2.JPG
Final product – the lid is displayed on a maple bowl that was turned last December (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=71062). The finial is curly maple and has a couple of coats of gloss poly.

As always, your comments, critiques and opinions are welcome!

Thanks for looking!

[Scott Conners]

Thanks for the tutorial Steve! What do you use to cut the initial circle of acrylic? Bandsaw? Do you have any melting problems? What kind of speeds are you able to turn at without melting? Thanks again!

[Judy Kingery]

Steve, nice polish in that I've only barely messed with any acrylics, plastics. I did use toothpaste one time as my last abrasive and it took some very fine scratches out. Really nice job! Appreciate the tutorial as Scott said! Jude

[David Walser]

Steve,

Thank you for taking the time to clearly show us how this is done. Great idea, clearly explained.

[Hilel Salomon]

Steve, Everything you make is outstanding. This was worth the wait until my slow connection got it down. Hilel.

[David Drickhamer]

Nicely done Steve. Thanks for the info.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks for the positive comments everyone! I do appreciate it! The idea behind this post wasn't to promote turning acrylic as much as to expose the possibilities of using materials in addition to wood.

Scott, you could use a bandsaw with no problem to cut the acrylic but I didn't want plastic shavings all through my saw. I clamped the acrylic to a couple of sawhorses and used a sabresaw equipped with a wood blade. Took my time cutting it as I didn't want the acrylic to heat up. Other thing to be aware of is the acrylic will chip, crack or snap off - just like a piece of glass - so make sure you have it fully supported!

Lathe speed I kept right at 1000 rpms but that was just because I was comfortable at that speed.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thank you Steve for sharing.

[Ben Gastfriend]

That is neat. I have some acrylic downstairs... I'm going to try it tonight! Thanks, Steve.

[robert hainstock]

Thanks for the positive comments everyone! I do appreciate it! The idea behind this post wasn't to promote turning acrylic as much as to expose the possibilities of using materials in addition to wood.

Scott, you could use a bandsaw with no problem to cut the acrylic but I didn't want plastic shavings all through my saw. I clamped the acrylic to a couple of sawhorses and used a sabresaw equipped with a wood blade. Took my time cutting it as I didn't want the acrylic to heat up. Other thing to be aware of is the acrylic will chip, crack or snap off - just like a piece of glass - so make sure you have it fully supported!

Lathe speed I kept right at 1000 rpms but that was just because I was comfortable at that speed.

Another source of white diamond in a thick paste form is auto POLISH. Auto rubbing compound is tripoli in a paste form/ FYI!
Bob

[earl timmons]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial. I feel like I am ready to give it a try after reading this.