Maple Dresser

[Matt Meiser]

I'm about to start building a dresser to match my daughters bed, nightstand, and bookshelf. Here's what I'm thinking but I could use some help reviewing the design before I start cutting lumber (which has to be soon because this is going to be a Christmas present!) I didn't take the time to draw them, but each drawer will get two knobs that match the one on the night stand.

[Ray Schafer]

I built a dresser a few years ago ... my first challenging project. I made frame dividers between the drawers and did not put dust panels in them ... so just a frame, no panel. My clothes from the my stuffed drawers often block the drawer above. Next time, I would definitely make sure that the dividers are paneled to prevent that.

[Matt Meiser]

Thanks--I wouldn't have though of that. I was planning to make frames and adding a sheet of 1/4" ply or hardboard should be easy enough.

[Jim Becker]

Matt, something to consider is a graduated drawer height. Larger at the bottom. You get the same amount of storage, but more space for bulkier things down low. And the look is quite pleasant, too.

[Tony Bilello]

I was just about to say the same thing. The graduated drawers are more functional in addition to being more pleasing to the eye.
Whenever I design something I have never done before, I will always take a casual stroll through a furniture store or two. There is usually a reason most designs have similar components.
I learned the hard way. My forehead is now flat and sloped backward from the slapping "Oh man, why didn't I think of that".

Tony B

[Matt Meiser]

They are graduated--8" for the bottom, 6" for the top with 1/2" steps. Or are you guys suggesting more graduation?

[Jim Becker]

Ok, I didn't really notice that from the sketches...I'm thinking that more graduation would visually be nicer, but you have to balance that with the end-customer's needs.