Using a Tape Measure

[Burt Alcantara]

I just threw away 2 tape measures that were over a 1/16 off in any direction and the difference between inside and outside was over a 1/16.

What I don't get is the hook. If I stretch the tape over the outside of a cabinet to measure the inside dimension, then measure the same distance from the inside of the cabinet I get 2 different measures, albeit small ones but different none the less.

Why does the hook jiggle? Should it?

My remaining measure is a Stanley 25'. I prefer smaller lengths for most of my work since I don't make big things. In the 8' range I don't care about these increments.

Do I have bad tapes or am I missing something about usage?

Thanks,
Burt

[Tommy Emmons]

The hook should move. The amount of movement is suppose to be the thickness of the hook. For outside measurements, the hook is extended to measure from the inside of the hook. For inside measurements, the hook is retracted to allow for measurement from the outside of the hook. I hope this helps.

[Tom Lauder]

Hi Burt

I read somewhere only recently that the hook should move by the amount equivalent to the thickness of the hook to allow for inside and outside measurements. This makes perfect sense now i know but like you I never figured out why the hook moved. The hook should also be bent at 90 degrees if its not then there will be discrepancies.

Hope that helps

Tom

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Burt, tape measures are notorious for having variable errors, depending upon what part of the tape you're looking at. ( a tape may indicate 1/32" long below 30", then read correctly for another 30 inches, and then indicate short after that.

That won't be a problem if you always use the same tape to measure everything. Obviously if you measure an opening as 92 35/64" and then use a different tape to build the cabinet, you may be in for a surprise.

That's where "story sticks" and steel rules come in.

Tapes are printed by a rubber master, so some variability is to be expected.

Steel rulers are made by die, so they are always a consistent copy of the die. Longer steel rulers are expensive because of the die costs.

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

I got a nice set of 6, 12, 18, and 24" rules. The 24" was off a thin 1/32" over 18". I exchanged it and now all are as close as I can tell by the aided eye. Being in the minority as a right-handed person (sarcasm), I prefer right to left reading tape measures to leave my right hand free for making marks. I picked up a couple 10' Lee Valley's that match the rules quite well (on the first try . . . just lucky). I did have to adjust one of the hooks so that the jiggle was correct. They are in 16ths but I generally stop trusting tapes around 1/16" anyway ;-)

[David DeCristoforo]

Tape measures are generally unreliable for "close" work. What I did was to mill some 3/4" wide, 3/8" thick sticks of mahogany. Then I bought some of those "sticky back" tapes that you get for setting up ROS and SCMC fences and glued them to the sticks. I made a 4', 6' and 8' stick. They work very well and eliminate the whole "hook" issue.

[Eric Gustafson]

Do I have bad tapes or am I missing something about usage?

Thanks,
Burt

Don't feel bad for not knowing this. When I got my first tape measure, I was probally 22 at the time, 55 now. I thought the tape measure wiggled cause it was made poorly. I soldered the darn thing in place so it wouldn't move! It took me awhile to figure out my mistake. Fortunately, I wasn't making anything so critical it made much of a differnece anyway!

[Jeff Duncan]

Here's something else you may not be aware of, the hook can and will eventually elongate the holes it's fixed to when you let the tape "snap" back into place. Always stop the tape before it hits when closing or you'll be throwing more tapes out.
I made it a habit to routinely check my measurements off the 1" mark while working. This ensures my tape is still reading correctly and takes about 2 seconds to do.
BTW, if your tapes were newer you may want to pull them back out of the trash. Unless the holes have been elongated as I referred to earlier, the hook can be bent slightly in either direction to return the accuracy.
I have 1/2 dozen tapes I use for measuring job sites, doesn't have to be more accurate than within a sixteenth of an inch. In the shop I have 1 Stanley 16' tape that is the perfect shop size (for me anyway) and I replace it every several years or so when it's worn out.
good luck,
JeffD

[J. Z. Guest]

Jeff's tip about letting them snap is on the money. I always slow it down with my finger when I'm retracting it.

When I go tape measure shopping, I bring my 12" Starrett ruler from the combo square, and sit there in the store checking them all out until I find one that's on the money at 12".

I wound up with a few: a cheap 3' Stanley, a top-of-the-line 12' Stanley, and a nice CenterFinder 25' one.

[Burt Alcantara]

Well, now I don't feel so much the dummy.

Thanks guys,
Burt

[Peter Quinn]

I got a couple of those fascap panel tapes for sheet stock and bench work beyond what my steel rulers can measure. They have no crown and are limp (flexible?) so lay flat on the stock, no bending the crown and squinting. The hook does not move as they are not made for inside measurements. I think they are 16', pretty much the upper limit for sheet goods. The guys at work like to make fun of them, lots of viagra jokes regarding my tapes. But they are fairly accurate and easy to use. I like um.

I don't find I really need a 33' fatmax capable of extending 12' without a collapse to take measurements in the shop for cabinets. I always pull measurements from the 10" mark or the 1" mark. I often cut my parts 10" too long! Better than 1/16" too short.

[glenn bradley]

One caution on the Fast Cap flat tape; I like mine but the hook does not hold true as there is no curve to the tape. That is, if you hook the end and pull the hook face will not remain at 90* to the tape resulting in mis-measurements. This in no way devalues the tape; they're great. Just be aware of this 'feature' and hold the hook.

[Jimmy Horrocks]

Use the same tape for the entire project. That way if its off by a bit it doesn't matter. If you truly need an acurate number, hold the one. That is, use the one inch mark as the starting point...just don't forget to add back the one...by the way, you can use a hammer and bash the end clip back into alignment.