Anybody ever made a (Japanese-style) wooden pull plane?

[Ben Fleis]

I know some people use Krenov planes in the pull style, since the blade location is fairly neutral. But all the japanese planes I've seen (limited quantity) had the blad positioned toward the back, which makes sense for the pulling stroke. Has anybody built one of these before? Have any suggestions for where to start if trying to build one?

-b

[David DeCristoforo]

You can make one in a similar way to how Krenov makes his. But, you need to cut a wedge shaped slot for the blade in each of the outer layers and then position the pin to allow the sub-blade to be wedged in. The blade needs to fit the slot so that when it is tapped into the slot it fits tightly enough to hold without a wedge. So that is kind of critical and will vary from blade to blade. So you need to have the blade on hand.

The other way is to chisel the whole thing out of a solid block which is much more difficult. I have several that I made years ago and would be happy to share pictures of them. However, I would not be able to post them until Monday.

[Howard Pollack]

The Japan Woodworker has a booklet on how to do this. I'm not sure if it is listed on their website, but I'm sure they'd send it to you if it is not on the site. I think it costs about $2.00. See also http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/20060401/ and also search http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/ -Howard

[Pam Niedermayer]

Yes, one piece dai. I learned from Inomoto-san, a major dai maker for many blacksmiths, in a two-day class. Given the sole shape, it's a pretty trick business, but certainly not rocket science.

Pam

[Mike Henderson]

Unless you particularly want a Japanese style plane, why not just make a Krenov plane with the blade set further back and use it as a pull plane?

That is, use a western blade, like a Hock, instead of a laminated Japanese blade.

Mike

[Casey Gooding]

Also keep in mind that Japanese planes tend to be pitched lower, around 40* as they are usually meant for softwood. It is, however, possible to get them bedded at higher angles suitable for Western Hardwoods. So, think about what you'll be working.

[Charlie Mastro]

All these answers are good as described. I have done both and while the Krenov plane is perhaps a little easier I got the best results chopping out the dia (plane body) and using a Japanese plane blade.

This is the traditional Japanese plane I kade using Eastern Rock Maple.
Notice the shape of the ramp the blade rests on. It's curved to match the blade. That's why you need the blade first before you start.

[Charlie Mastro]

Since I can't seem to figure out how to add text after I include the pictures I'll just continue here. (Any help with this issue wiould be appreciated PM me) So this is a Krenov style Japanese pull plane bedded at 55 degrees. Single blade, no chipbreaker, made out of a south pacific island hardwood I made my bed out of called Affilaly (sp). Anyway that doesn't matter,. I would connsider making the dia thinner so s to be more like a real Japanese plane but as yet I haven't used it much.

[David Keller NC]

Hey Charlie - Nice website! (Can't resist googling signatures on net forums). The hand mirror was very impressive - carving ebony isn't easy.

[Charlie Mastro]

Thanks Dave, If I remember corectly it's East Indian Rosewood but an especially black piece ( it varies like a lot of ebony) and I'm sure some what easier to carve than ebony. I'll get to find out soon because I have a jewerly case to build for a silver smith out of ebony. He will be making all the hardware and I will be making the dovetailed carring case that will be something along the lines of my whale tail stool.

[Dale Osowski]

This may be a perfect time to take a class. I know they are looking to get more students and you could learn from the best, http://www.japanesetools.com/phpBB2/...601cade7a7691f

[Ben Fleis]

As far as classes I would love to take them, but I'm already a student at the CFC, and have little remaining money for add ons. However, I have lots of shop time, and time to experiment with affordable things... which means

I will likely try a Krenov style plane w/ the blade seated further back.

Charlie -- how did your home made version compare with the purchased ones you have?

Thanks!

-ben

[Charlie Mastro]

Charlie -- how did your home made version compare with the purchased ones you have?

Thanks!

-ben

The one I made is just about my favorite plane. The Krenov style high angle not so much. It is as good as any of my purchased Japanese planes but I don't have any Japanese planes that cost more than $200 so I'm sure there are other Japanese planes that will cut better I just don't own them.

Because the true Japanese style plane used a good Japanese blade and it was thicker than the one in my Knenov I'm sure that's why it preforms so much better. So I think the only way to make the Krenov style better is to use a thicker Japanese blade but for you're first plane use what ever blade you like. You'll find them so easy to make you'll want to make more than one.

[Mike Cutler]

Since I can't seem to figure out how to add text after I include the pictures I'll just continue here. (Any help with this issue wiould be appreciated PM me)

Charlie

Upload all of your pic's first, it's a little easier if you do, and then follow Aaron's instruction in this thread.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25115

By the way, nice work on the planes, they look like they took a it of work to produce.

[Charlie Mastro]

Charlie

Upload all of your pic's first, it's a little easier if you do, and then follow Aaron's instruction in this thread.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25115

By the way, nice work on the planes, they look like they took a it of work to produce.

Thanks I looked up that link. maybe that will work on my blog as I seem to have the same problem there.

They really aren't that hard to do especially the Krenov style, you should try it.