Long-term storage

[Bob Coleman]

Hi All,

I need to store some tools long-term here in humid NY (relative to CO at least). After looking through a bunch of old threads, I'm wondering if I should pony up for some Boeshield T9 or if a coat of Johnson wax is sufficient?

Thanks for the advice
Bob

[Johnny Kleso]

I use WD-40
$9.99 a Gal. at Lowes

I would spray them down and wrap them in newspaper if its really long term..

For those non belivers the WD-30 story
http://www.myfavoriteezines.com/articles/wd-40.html

[Bill Moser]

Bob -
My guess is that my environment here in NH is pretty close to yours in NY as far as humidity goes. If you have the room for it, I think your best bet is to lightly coat with camelia oil, and stand the tools out on shelves with space between them, and little contact with the shelves themselves (by raising them with slivers of hardwood, say).
cheers
bill

[Chris Kennedy]

Bob -
. . . If you have the room for it, I think your best bet is to lightly coat with camelia oil . . .

I agree with the camellia oil if the humidity isn't too high. I used it in northwest PA with good success. Here in VA, I would go with Boeshield. Two other suggestions:

1. If the tool size allows it, you might also consider plane sacks -- I have found these to be very good.

2. Depending on how long term you are talking, you might consider a little "cathodic protection." Attach the tools to a metal object with a lower oxidation potential (sacrificial anode) -- it rusts out instead of your tools.

For the latter, I have seen this work (I think). I cleaned out my wife's grandmother's old shed/barn, and found metal tool box after tool box that was practically disintegrating with rust, but the tools inside were practically spotless. This was after 50 years, less than 200 yards from saltwater. I think the potential of the toolboxes was lower than the tools, and they had made the sacrifice.

Cheers,

Chris

[Bill Moser]

1. If the tool size allows it, you might also consider plane sacks -- I have found these to be very good.

I have to say, the silicone impregnated plane sacks have not worked well for me, which is why I now only store my tools "in plain sight" as it were -- out on a shelf, with lots of air circulation. Anything else has spelled rust for me...

[Joe Vincent]

What about those blue bags that new planes from some of the manufacturers come in? What kind of protection do those provide?

[Bill Houghton]

I use WD-40

I don't know...I've got some jointer blades that I sprayed with that, wrapped in paper towels soaked in it, left in my shop - they've got rust spots now.

[Brent Smith]

Lee Valley sells a few products that could help you out.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...67&cat=1,43326
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...28&cat=1,43326
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...55&cat=1,43326

Which ever rust inhibitor you choose, storing the tools in a wooden box will help.

[Johnny Kleso]

I don't know...I've got some jointer blades that I sprayed with that, wrapped in paper towels soaked in it, left in my shop - they've got rust spots now.

Thats strang but maybe because it was wet and did not dry.. Are you sure its rust and not just dried oil???

I just spray some on and rub it all over with my hands and if long term wrap it in dry news paper, waxed paper would be better..

[Mike Cutler]

Bob

I have only found one thing that works. LPS Rust Inhibitor. It goes on as a spray, but it sets to a gummy, snotty, substance. You'll work at it to clean it off, but if you're really not going to use them...

If you find a shorter term storage solution, I'd like to know. So far my best success has been WD-40 sprayed on old rags, wrap the tool and put it in a ziploc bag. if I have some dessicant packs, I'll throw them in to.
I'll spray the Camelia oil on the chisels and put them back into the rolls and bring them in the house in between use. It didn't help with my Crown's and Sorby's (They still got a little rust on them), but the LN's have been fine.

Bill
I got second Johnny on the WD-40. It's not permanent, but it works. All of my machine surfaces have WD-40 sprayed on them, a layer of WD-40 impregnated cardboard, a layer of old towels sprayed with WD-40 and finally a 3/4" layer of plywood for protection. I've never had rust on my machine surface with this combo.

Sometimes I wish I could send all my hand tools to Bob Smalser to blue for me. I wonder what he'd charge, to do 'em.

[John Shuk]

Hi Bob,
I live right down the road in Cold Spring. Store the tools at my house and I'll keep'em rust free for ya!
I try to keep my stuff in tool box with a bag of dessicant like they sell for gun safes and such.
My powertools I've coated with automotive paste wax with good results. Some people advocate against that due to possible silicone but I haven't had trouble.
It's nice to see another local person on here.
John

[Bob Coleman]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I am going to try a heavy coat of paste wax without buffing it off and see how that works. Anybody have bad luck doing this?

I'll check them in a week or so and see if I need another solution.

Bob

[Wayne Cannon]

I've had pretty good luck with the silica gel products (second item in Brent Smith's list), but they're only good for a long period of time if they are in a relatively sealed environment (box, tight drawer, tool box, small tight cabinet, etc.) where they can dry the air and not have fresh moist air circulate back into the cabinet.

I stopped using WD-40 for long-term applications after someone told me that it doesn't leave any long-term residue (i.e., it all eventually evaporates), for which I have no confirmation. I switched to T-9, TopCoat, TopSaver, or plain wax/parafin, instead.