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Thread: Baltic or Finland Birch

  1. #1

    Baltic or Finland Birch

    I had picked up some sheets of material at the local hobby lobby.

    I also thought i had all the same material just different thicknesses because it all said birch plywood.

    Here is my question:
    One of the "birch" sheets had a slight gray tint to it and it Lased like magic, very black marks. The other stuff is more pale, cuts like butter but is very soft. It is hard to get a dark mark on it.
    Are these qualities indicitve of Baltic and Finland birch and if so, what is the difference?

    I tried to search but there was nothing that came up.

    Thanks,
    David
    EDIT: I just placed an order today with Sloans for stock number #107 and would like to make sure it is going to engrave dark.
    The page is here http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/plywoods.htm
    Last edited by David Dustin; 09-29-2008 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Added comment
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  2. #2
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    I have had mixed results with both baltic and finnish. The problem is inconsistency and it may be hard to find a good source that will remain the same very long. Local suppliers will have plenty, then be out for months. It has to do with frequent shortages due to weather in areas where it's harvested, the amount of time it takes to cure, and increased sales to China.

    If you find some you like order a bunch more!



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

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  3. #3
    I just had a conversation with an importer of Baltic Birch to the US. According to him there are only a couple of factories that can produce quality B/BB Baltic Birch and you need to make sure you are getting that product. I was buying from a different vendor and had many problems with inconsistent cuts, sometimes it would not cut all the way through, and also image quality. This new stuff I am buying cuts perfect. Small cuts fall right out of the sheet.
    Doug

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Bergstrom View Post
    I just had a conversation with an importer of Baltic Birch to the US. According to him there are only a couple of factories that can produce quality B/BB Baltic Birch and you need to make sure you are getting that product. I was buying from a different vendor and had many problems with inconsistent cuts, sometimes it would not cut all the way through, and also image quality. This new stuff I am buying cuts perfect. Small cuts fall right out of the sheet.
    Keeping the source secret, Doug? Can't blame you!



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  5. #5
    Well my concern is I ordered a bunch of it and may need to scale that back.
    The 1/16" sample I had was fantastic. the mark was almost jet black on the wood. The 1/8' cut very well but then wouldn't mark well (unless there is a "special" secret to marking soft wood).
    I tried every setting under the sun (except my High Density Optics, which in my experience just cuts all the material away), but no joy.

    I have been placing kid's images on wooden ornaments with pretty reasonable sales success. Cherry wood works pretty well, but If I could get the same material as I tested....wow.

    We have another event this weekend where we will be onsite doing LIVE engraving. There is a lot of preasure to get it right, particularly when there is a line of people waiting.

    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  6. #6
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    That's the problem, by the time you rec'd and tested the sample they probably got in stock from a different source. If you increase the resolution it will go deeper. Have you tried lowering the power a bit and running at a much lower speed for darker marks?



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  7. #7
    Thanks for the tip, I'll try that right away.

    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  8. #8
    David
    Take a look at the free stuff offer from George Perzel.

    It's high quality wood and very reasonably priced. It is solid not ply.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

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  9. #9
    That worked in a very limited way.
    The wood is still very soft and I am wondering if it is poplar or something.
    The beam jut eats it away (but it cuts really well).

    David
    PLS 3.60, CorelDraw X4, Full Adobe Maser Suite (oh yeah), 3ds Max, 6 Dell 690 Work Stations (and a host of other hardware).

  10. #10
    Sometimes, lowering the table and taking it out of focus a little will produce a darker making. On old weathered Cedar fence pickets (soft wood) this works well most of the time and does create a deep burn.

    Harlan

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Dustin View Post
    That worked in a very limited way.
    The wood is still very soft and I am wondering if it is poplar or something.
    The beam jut eats it away (but it cuts really well).

    David
    Maybe it's birch only on the surface layers and much softer basswood inside?



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  12. #12
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    My experience with baltic ply :

    Engrave within the thickness of the top ply - little or no darkness.

    Hit the glue line at the bottom of the ply - dark or black engraving.

    With interior grade ply (best for cutting) hitting the glue line only gives a darker engrave.
    Exterior or aircraft quality boards give really dark to black engraving when you hit the glue line, but is messy to cut right through because the phenolic glue bubbles up and chars.

    Even the so-called "top quality" birch ply boards are very variable.

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