Is there any reason why I could/should not cut some 6" PVC joint fittings with a bandsaw?
Is there any reason why I could/should not cut some 6" PVC joint fittings with a bandsaw?
I haven't done it but I can fully understand why you'd want to give it a shot. I think it is a great idea. I dunno how many different blades you have but you may wish to experiment with a few and see how it turns out.
I've done it also. No problems to report.
Thanks, I'll report back if I have any problems.
I think the key is you want a fine toothed blade. Optimum would be enough teeth so that you can have a few teeth in the wall of the PVC at a time. That probably isn't practical, but I'm guessing the finer the better.
That said I've cut it w/ 6-TPI. It worked fine, but the risk of grabbing/binding is probably much higher.
I've cut all kinds of weird things on my Craftsman 10" bandsaw. I feed the bandsaw all the weird stuff (thick paperboard, plexiglass, acrylic, PVC, etc) because the cutting action is unidirectional and the blade in shallow (1/4"-3/4"). The chance for kickback is greatly reduced just based on the design. Table saw blades have the teeth passing through the material twice, once up and once down plus the blade is very deep (2, 3, 4, or more inches). Jig and scroll saws have shallow blades but still have the two direction cutting action (the blade moves up and down within the workpiece).
The rule of thumb is usually 3-5 teeth in the material at a time. Instead of basing the tooth count on the 6" diameter, it would be based on the wall thickness. I would guess around 3/8"-1/2". So 6 TPI might be on the low side but close.
Last edited by Anthony Whitesell; 10-01-2008 at 8:43 AM.
No problem with the actual cutting, but you must fasten the fitting to something that cannot rotate, especially if you are cutting across the pipe. NEVER cut anything round on a band saw that is not secured so it cannot rotate. Your hands are a poor choice for that and you are at great risk for having them pulled into the blade very quickly when the workpiece catches on the blade and turns.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
My biggest concern would be with the PVC dust. It seems to get everywhere when you cut it, and the static charge it develops seems to keep it stuck to most surfaces. If your dust collection isn't that good, you might want to stick with a PVC or hack saw instead, unless you don't mind having it in the cabinet of the saw.
Doc
As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.
Why not?? I cut mine on the miter saw with an 80 tooth blade. No problems other than the shavings like to cling to everything. Static electricity I think.