What brand - type of blade(s) should I purchase for my new Grizzly 1023SL?

[John Ricci]

Daniel, I'm using the Freud P410 Fusion blade in my General 650R cab saw and the results are impressive on both rips and crosscuts. The fusion leaves a glue edge on anything I have been cutting with it so far...mostly 4/4 cherry and walnut as well as cedar and pine. I rarely find myself going to the jointer since I have been using this blade. My .02Cdn.

J.R.

[Robert Chapman]

I use Forrest blades on all my saws and have for the last 10 years. They are very high quality and Forrest sharpens them perfectly as needed. If you can only buy one get the Woodworker II.

[Daniel Hillmer]

Hi Daniel - Getting the most splinter free cut will require a specialty plywood/veneer/laminate blade. They're usually a high tooth count, Hi-ATB grind. Blades like the Infinity Ultrasmooth 010-080, Freud LU80R010, or Forrest Duraline fit the bill. It'll be super in plywood and will also crosscut extremely well.

A blade like the Forrest WWII 30T would be a nice compliment to a good 80T Hi-ATB blade, and will easily give glue ready cuts in fairly thick material and acceptable crosscuts when needed.

If you'd still like to try with one blade, the new Infinity Super General 010-044 and Freud P410 Fusion both offer a unique Hi-ATB grind in a 40T general purpose blade. These won't offer the best performance in any particular area, but will do most things surprisingly well, and will outperform other general purpose/combo types in plywoods due to their Hi-ATB grind.

You can cut a ZCI from a phenolic blank to fit your saw.

OK thanks, I was thinking that I might only need two blades for the TS to start with, because I will be using the festool saw for knocking down my 4 x 8 sheets for the table saw. So maybe I could use one blade for ripping with the grain hard maple, and another blade for doing final cuts on cabinet grade plywood and crosscuts on maple.

Think that would be a good way to go?

So maybe a forest Forrest Duraline for plywood and hard maple crosscuts, and the Forrest WWII for going with the grain in hard maple? Should I go with a 40 tooth to rip with the grain in maple? Or would 30 be better?

[chris dub]

A lot off the Duralines are reduced on Amazon.

[scott spencer]

OK thanks, I was thinking that I might only need two blades for the TS to start with, because I will be using the festool saw for knocking down my 4 x 8 sheets for the table saw. So maybe I could use one blade for ripping with the grain hard maple, and another blade for doing final cuts on cabinet grade plywood and crosscuts on maple.

Think that would be a good way to go?

So maybe a forest Forrest Duraline for plywood and hard maple crosscuts, and the Forrest WWII for going with the grain in hard maple? Should I go with a 40 tooth to rip with the grain in maple? Or would 30 be better?

I owned both the 30T and the 40T and it's hard to tell the cuts apart. The 30T will have an easier time in thicker material. The 40T will have a slight edge in crosscuts but you'll have that range covered in spades if you go with one of the specialty ply blades, and the crosscut from the 30T just might surprise you. If choosing two blades I'd definitely go with the 30T WWII, and one of the three 80T Hi-ATB blades I mentioned....find a deal you like, all are terrific.

[Daniel Hillmer]

Hi Daniel - Getting the most splinter free cut will require a specialty plywood/veneer/laminate blade. They're usually a high tooth count, Hi-ATB grind. Blades like the Infinity Ultrasmooth 010-080, Freud LU80R010, or Forrest Duraline fit the bill. It'll be super in plywood and will also crosscut extremely well.

A blade like the Forrest WWII 30T would be a nice compliment to a good 80T Hi-ATB blade, and will easily give glue ready cuts in fairly thick material and acceptable crosscuts when needed.

If you'd still like to try with one blade, the new Infinity Super General 010-044 and Freud P410 Fusion both offer a unique Hi-ATB grind in a 40T general purpose blade. These won't offer the best performance in any particular area, but will do most things surprisingly well, and will outperform other general purpose/combo types in plywoods due to their Hi-ATB grind.

You can cut a ZCI from a phenolic blank to fit your saw.

Thanks scott,

In the Forrest Duraline, is there any particular advantage getting the .125 kerf instead of the .100 kerf?

[scott spencer]

Thanks scott,

In the Forrest Duraline, is there any particular advantage getting the .125 kerf instead of the .100 kerf?

Less potential for deflection with the thicker blade, and you have plenty of power behind it.

[Prashun Patel]

If you don't want to spend $100 on a FWWII or a Freud Fusion, the Freud 50T combo blades have been very good to me for general purpose ripping < 1.5" stock and cross cutting solid and ply. They're cheap too: $34 on Amazon w/ free shipping...