router table question

[Russ Ambrose]

I have a question re: router tables and the mounting of routers and would appreciate any wisdom and insight y’all can offer. I’m going to be building a router table and mounting a Milwaukee 5625-20 router to it. this router is going to be dedicated to router table use. my question is this - should I use a mounting plate or not.

seems like I’ve got two (or at least two) choices. (1) construct the table with a cutout in which to place the mounting plate or (2) simply mount the router to the underside of the table itself. I’m leaning towards option (2). I’m planning on making the top out of MDF (2 pieces of 3/4 inch MDF glued together, covered top/bottom with laminate and trimmed with maple).

my concern with a mounting plate (aside from spending the $$$ to buy one) is that if I don’t get the cutout on the top of the table just right, the plate won’t fit properly and the table as a whole may not be flat. also, cutting a big hole in the table may weaken the table in the very spot where it needs to be the strongest. on the other hand, if I mount the router directly to the underside of the table I don’t have this concern. I understand that I’ll need to cut a recess on the underside of the table in which to mount the router, but that opening doesn’t have to be "just right" - it just needs to be the appropriate size and a consistent depth.

I figure that I can build two or three MDF table tops like this, each with different size openings for use with router bits of varying size. simply move the router from the underside of one table top to another when necessary. I think I like this idea better than using a mounting plate with inserts. however, I’d like to hear other folks’ insight or experience. thanks.

[Ed Peters]

I don't believe you will be happy with the outcome of dedicated table tops. As you get into more and more router work, you may find, like I did, that you will want certain tools to remain in the router. This is especially true for matched rail and stile tooling that is used for manufacturing doors. So, as you add additional routers, you will want to be able to utilize the same table. I personally think you are further ahead with the inserts.

Ed

[Don L Johnson]

Ditto, here! A lot of sources of router plates, I assume, usually offer templates so the cutout is near exact. In addition to the ease of use with different size inserts, I think the plate gives you a lot of potential for easy raising and lowering of the router bit, which includes the ease of "above table" change of router bits. I've had a single 1" thick MDF table top with a heavy router - 3+hp and plate for 4 years and have not noticed any table top sag at all. Just remember, the easier it is to use a tool, the more apt you are to use it.

[Julian Wong]

also, cutting a big hole in the table may weaken the table in the very spot where it needs to be the strongest. on the other hand, if I mount the router directly to the underside of the table I don’t have this concern. I understand that I’ll need to cut a recess on the underside of the table in which to mount the router, but that opening doesn’t have to be "just right" - it just needs to be the appropriate size and a consistent depth.

Cutting a recess in the router table to house the router will also weaken the table. Other option is to use a router collet extender because most bits and router shafts will not allow for 1-1/2" thick table. If your table is 1-1/2" thick, it's more than enough strength to support a plate even if the plate is 3/8" thick. keep in mind you're not appyling hundreds of lb to the center of the table, probably much less than 40lb to keep the wood in place while routing.

I have gone with the plate and have been very satisfied.

[Greg Hines, MD]

The rationale for a router plate has to do more with changing out the bits. It is much easier to have the option for removing the router entirely to change out the bits if you need to. Other people, such as the folks at Kreg, will remind you that they have pocket hole jigs on plates to fit into your router table, and some people will mount a jigsaw upside down on a router plate for scrolling work, etc. Difficult, if not impossible, to do with just a router screwed to a tabletop.

The other thing that a dedicated router plate will allow is the use of guide bushings and reducing rings to constrict the size of the hole around the bit. If you use a simple tabletop, whatever hole you drill is it.

You will need to beef up the construction of the top around the hole, but that is a small problem compared to how much easier it will be to deal with your router.

Doc

[Tom Burger]

I have one table of each style.

I was able to get 1/2" swanstone offcuts to use
as insert plates. Have one for each router I'll be using
in the table. It's nice for matched cuts as someone mentioned earlier.

The other (straight table top w/out inserts) houses the same router all the time and is used mainly with guided bits for edge profiling and
pattern work, etc....

I guess what's best for you is how you'll use the table the most.

[Myk Rian]

Even though my PC router is dedicated to the table, I'm glad I have an insert plate. There will be times you want to take it out of the table, or open/close the hole depending on which bit you are using.
My first RT was without a plate. Second and third have one.